Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my r32 rb20det has no rpm signal from the ecu? this was confirmed by the auto elictrican who fixed up some other bits for me, i have two questions

1st is can this be fixed without replacing the ecu?

2nd is will this effect the install of my safc

the sparkie said he can get the signal from somewhere else

oh yeah the engine isn't in a r32 anymore...

Cheers Matt....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54543-standard-ecu/
Share on other sites

What exactly is the problem?

I think someone has this arse-about. If anything, the engine generates a rpm signal for the ECU.

from my understanding the ecu rpm signal wire is linked to the tacho, thats what i'm talking about, from the ecu to the tacho theres no signal at all which is why i'm concerned about the safc install as well...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54543-standard-ecu/#findComment-1067455
Share on other sites

My ecu didn't produce an rpm signal until i'd replaced my s13 tacho mechanism with the r32 mechanism. I still had my SAFC installed before then though, can't remember if i'd had it tuned before i fixed the tacho.

how exactley do you go about replacing the mechanism? i have the exact same problem, my tacho reads very slowly...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54543-standard-ecu/#findComment-1069345
Share on other sites

My ecu didn't produce an rpm signal until i'd replaced my s13 tacho mechanism with the r32 mechanism. I still had my SAFC installed before then though, can't remember if i'd had it tuned before i fixed the tacho.

toward that it's a simple 4 cylinder tacho mechanism (180sx) getting a six cylinder pulse from the ECU, voltage is different or something, when it came to the SAFC the rb20 ecu had a signal that went to the safc where as my rb20 ecu just dosen't have a signal at all, sorry mate thanks for the help though..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54543-standard-ecu/#findComment-1069854
Share on other sites

The tacho signal wire (pin 7) generates a signal by shorting to ground through the ECU.

If you were to connect this wire to an oscilloscope (and nothing else), the voltage waveform would be a flat line at 0V, ie the pin is being switched by the ECU between ground and 0V.

To get a signal other than a flat line, you need to connect a voltage source to pin 7, so then the ECU is switching pin 7 between (say) 12V and 0V and therfore generating a square wave.

I'm pretty sure the gear that provides a voltage source to pin 7 is integral with the OEM tacho and I think this generates a 0-5V waveform.

Also different tacho's are deisgned to work with different voltage waveforms, some are universal but others are designed to work at say 12V or hundreds of volts (ie direct from the coil).

You can generate a 0-12V square wave by connecting pin 7 to a 12V rail. Because no-one knows the current limit of the circuit for pin 7 a pull up resistor of say 10k ohms is usually connected between the 12V rail and pin 7. This limits to current to a small amount so you don't burn out that part of the ECU.

The pull up resistor method will only work for tachos which can use a 0-12V signal tho and it won't solve your problems if you need to modify the frequency of the pulses for different cylinder engines. If the tacho doesn't work, you will need a device that can generate a voltage signal that your tacho can read. These are commonly referred to as tacho boosters. Sixworks in Newcastle sell these devices (approx $50 or $100 depending on which you need).

These take about 5 min to install, I can put you in touch if you like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54543-standard-ecu/#findComment-1070013
Share on other sites

What I remember doesn't agree with any of your comments. I'll check my service manual when back at home.

BTW, my comments are all for the R32 RB20DET.

Sorry, I was looking at the r33 Pinout diagram, The 32 Diagram for Rb20,

Pinout put 7 is Speed Sensor, which yes you can use for the RPM Signal.

Thats the problem with having too many Wiring Diagrams !!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54543-standard-ecu/#findComment-1070301
Share on other sites

my question was for the r32 rb20det, http://www.rb20det.com/ecupinout.html thats a pinout diagram for the r32 ECU,

if i can get the tacho to run from somewhere else on the engine would that signal be ok to hook up the safc to aswell?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54543-standard-ecu/#findComment-1070330
Share on other sites

my question was for the r32 rb20det, http://www.rb20det.com/ecupinout.html  thats a pinout diagram for the r32 ECU,  

if i can get the tacho to run from somewhere else on the engine would that signal be ok to hook up the safc to aswell?

Yes just tap into that wire pin out from the ECU with your SAFC and that will give you a reading for your RPM, Simple as that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54543-standard-ecu/#findComment-1070332
Share on other sites

Yes just tap into that wire pin out from the ECU with your SAFC and that will give you a reading for your RPM, Simple as that.

the thing is is that wire from my ecu has no signal at all, its dead, been tested by two auto sparkies now and told no signal....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54543-standard-ecu/#findComment-1070350
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...