Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Might be air bag - but why would it be so close to the turbo ??

Knock sensor is attached to the block AFAIK

Oxygen Sensor is attached to the exhaust dump - know that for certain :D

Diagnosis plug in is under the dash AFAIK

OK - Looks like I need to RTFM...... :D

This may be it:

The wire going to it is yellow and black striped? And it has a rubber cap that comes off? It is quite possibly and indicator for the timing light. It has been put there to easily check the timing of the car without having to look for an ignition lead.

Now I'm not sure exactly how to hook it up. I assume you give the normal power to the timing light and then hook up the connector to the bit inside.

One thing I can say is that it is not a Knock Sensor. These are found on the inlet side of the engine. Your car would be coming up with fault code 34 (from memory). It is not an O2 Sensor either as this plugs into the exhaust, and we all know what buring plastic smells like!

Nissan, in there infinite wisdom, made all these things with clips on them so they wouldn't run loose in the engine bay. I will try and find where it clips in so you can give it a home. (Somewhere near the strut tower, behind the pwr str tank)

What ever you do, don't get rid of it. It is there for a reason. Just tuck it out of the way for the moment. Should make checking the timing a bit easier.

What do ya think?

IT IS NOT A KNOCK SENSOR. IT ISN'T USED FOR TIMING EITHER.

The ignition is close looped so you will find a thin black wire looping out behind the ignition control module. That is what is used to check timing. The plug you have displayed belongs in front of the left tower near the power steer reservoir and AFM. It is of no importance to you whatsoever and is used as an earthing device for diagnostic check. It usually has the plug in it and tape over the plug. I would still seal the wire as you don't want it to earth by mistake and enter a diagnostic mode. I can tell you EXACTLY what is used for if you really want me to but this involves effort and I will only do on request.

Oxygen Sensor is attached to the exhaust dump - know that for certain :)

most of us here know what an oxygen sensor looks like and know where it is.

perhaps i should have explained myself better...i meant it is the plug that is attached to the oxygen sensor perhaps?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...