Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

mm i woudlnt be a fan of second hand tyres

i recently got dunlop direzza's 255s on the rear, about $400 each fitted

friggin awesome tyres, very nice, comparable to pzero 255s which i had previously

you buy second hand tyres cheap for one reason...

once they have been fried, they loose thier traction. thats why they are cheap, as they are not performing like a new tyre would.

I've just put sumitomo all round on my car $300 each, on 18's

They are very grippy, had em for 1,000km's so far and wet/dry they aint too bad considering they are on my car and its RWD :D

Oh, and i wont fry these tyres, did that with other tyres i've had and they are never the same (hence cheap 2nd)

Well guys TruTrack in North Melbourne did confirm that the rear tyres are rooted and need to be changed straight away. So now I have decided to go all new tyres ...

265 X 18 X 35 Hankooks K104's all round .. will be picking up the car in a few hours so I'll let you know what I think.

TruTrack also balanced the car and I swear it is steering real sweet!!

Spacers, yah I know not the best but I have got fond of my Rims and dont want to spend $4k on some new ones. Plus the spacers are the type that bolt on to the car (dunno if that makes a difference)

Let us know what you think of the hankooks beefy - i've got them on my car and find them pretty good for the road... what tyre did you have on before?

are the 2nd hand tyre joint giving you your money back for the 2nd hand ones? what was actualy wrong with them?

as for spacers i've heard different reports from different people... i don't see the problem with them, can anyone give a proven reason that spacers are bad for performance vehicles? they may add a little extra load on the hubs, but so would putting wheels with more offset on?

I don't have spacers, but i wouldn't mind getting some to get my 34GTR rims to fill the guards a bit better when i have some spare cash

Bass is correct as far as I'm aware also. The lip on the bearing hub takes most of the weight and the nuts/studs simply hold the wheel in place. That's way you always have to get spacers made up to take up the difference in diameter if after-market wheels are fitted.

I'm also about to buy new tyres for my car.

I need 235s for the front and 255s for the road (8 and 9 inch rims)

The only tyres that do the same tread pattern front and rear for those sizes  are Sumitomo and Yokohama.

Are the Sumis any good?  I have heard varying reports.

My R34 is a daily driver and needs to have resonable wear qualities.

BASS OUT

What about Falken ?? Should be able to get same patter for those sizes in a ZE326, ZE512, ZE451 and ST115 from memory. That is assuming you like Falken tyres of course.

I'm also about to buy new tyres for my car.

I need 235s for the front and 255s for the road (8 and 9 inch rims)

The only tyres that do the same tread pattern front and rear for those sizes  are Sumitomo and Yokohama.

Are the Sumis any good?  I have heard varying reports.

My R34 is a daily driver and needs to have resonable wear qualities.

BASS OUT

What about Falken ?? Should be able to get same pattern for those sizes in a ZE326, ZE512, ZE451 and ST115 from memory. That is assuming you like Falken tyres of course.

Ferni, yah will do. So far they feel great!

Yes I have informed the 2nd hand tyre place and they are going to refund my money. The front 2 were stuffed but the rear were fine so I suppose I could of just been unlucky to get a rooted front pair.

I had Kuhmos (cant remember the model) prior. They were not very good.

Well everyone I hear says spacers are no good for performance cars so I guess it must have some truth behind it all. Honestly I will be looking at getting some new Rims in about a years time.

I just find it hard to belive that spacers are that bad (bolt on ones) since Ben@racepace said i should get them for my car so the rims sit in the guards better, he had the same rims on his car and used spacers.... i dunno

What about Falken ?? Should be able to get same pattern for those sizes in a ZE326, ZE512, ZE451 and ST115 from memory. That is assuming you like Falken tyres of course.

Ive got a set of ZE326 on mine. They feel pretty good but I havent tried much else.

What other brands could you compare these to for price and quality.

whats the price difference between these and the ST115 and whats the difference in the tyres?

:)

hi guys,

for people (in melb.) that are interested in a good price for Hankook K104 tyres, check these guys out;

Bundoora Tyre Service

223 Settlement Rd.,

Thomastown VIC 3074

Ph: 94656244

i just got quoted $120 per tyre (inc. fitting & balancing) for 225/50/16s, which i thought was quite good especially after being quoted $179 & $154 (respectively) from other stores.

Not sure about larger sizes, you might just have to ring and ask.

if u do call them, speak to Kevin and tell him Goran (with the Sierra Cosworth) referred you.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...