Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I Have Been Getting Heaps Of Phone Calls Today From People Asking What Happened. Well Here Goes.

I Was Driving To Work This Morning As Usual When Some Chick In A Toyota Echo Pulled Out In Front And We Hit Head On. Her Engine Hit The Firewall And She Spun A Few Times , I Hit And Barely Missed Two Telegraph Poles And Nearly Ended Up In The Cheese Cake Shop.

So If Anyone Else Seen A R32 Gtr White In Colour Number Plate Burko In Guildford All Smashed Up Yep It Was Me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55169-yes-my-gtr-is-written-off/
Share on other sites

Yeah We Both Came Out Of It Ok , A Bit Sore But Ok. She Had A Airbag To Cushion Her , Don't Know If It Helped Though.

As For Who Was At Fault She Was Totally , The Police Were Giving Her A Fine At The Scene Also.

Does Anyone One Know Market Price On A R32 Gtr 92 Model? I Have Been Told They'll Pay Me Market Value , I Want Them To Inspect Mine As I Have Spent A Fortune On It.

Why was she fined at the scene? On a mobile phone by any chance?

If she was doing anything illegal, odds are heavily stacked on your side.

Hopefully it works out for you, friggin small cars are all accidents waiting to happen with the way most people drive them if you ask me ;)

Why was she fined at the scene? On a mobile phone by any chance?

Majority of the time the at fault driver is fined/charged in an accident. Accidents are usually the result of something, e.g failing to give way, negligent driving etc.

Sux that straight after a crash you get slapped with a fine, but thats the way it goes.

As for the car, I was under the impression the insurer paid out the agreed value of the car not market value?

Man that really sucks.

The car I had before my r33 was written off too by a P plater. Cops also charged him with neg driving.

To answer a few questions, because your car is listed as "market value" on your policy, it is up to your insurance company (not hers, even though it was her fault) to assess how much your car is worth. (my car was also listed as "market value"...never again will I have a car insured as "market value").

This is done by seeing how much can be salvaged, and the return that they may get on the parts, and redbook value.

I suggest removing as many of the parts that you can and putting the original stuff back on, as they will quote something ridiculous like $500 for a $2000 stereo system.

One thing you can do is you can get the payout and buy back the wreck. If the wreck is only a wreck because it would cost too much for the insurance company to fix the panels - then you might consider doing this, but if your chasis is all twisted leave it be. This option was given to me with my car as the payout was absolute bulls#!t. I could've sold the car second hand for $5000+ more than what I ended up getting.

If I bought back the wreck I could've had it fixed. But the time it would've taken wasn't worth it. Plus I didn't want the car back really. Not after what it had been through.

That really sucks man. You're driving along one day and everything's good. Then boom, out of nowhere.

One thing that I learnt is to always have cars insured as Agreed Value.

Hope it all works out for you.

wil..

Hey Brad You Know All The Hassle I Had Putting It Together And Now It Was Totally Finished It Was My Pride And Joy. Half You Guys Never Even Got To See It.

Thanks For The Replies

Hopefully We Agree On A Appropriate Pay Out.

I Will Keep You Guys Informed On Whats Happening

This is the exact reason why Andrea doesnt like driving hers all the time. You spend every cent of your hard earned cash making it exactly what you want and then its gone in a split second ;):( main thing is that your ok.... we can only hope now that insurance comes through for you.

Although this is really harsh..... if your insurance company is going to pay you out and only gives you market value, which you obvisouly wont be happy with..... how would you go sueing her, or her insurance company, for loss of moneys as a result of her causing the accident??

As i say, it is really harsh, but so is the fact she just destroyed your dream ride and possibly lost you heaps of cash at the same time.......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...