Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Replacing the fuel filter on an R33

This is probably suck eggs for most people but just thought I’d post any work I did on the car as it may make things easier for others when going through the same process.

Things required:

1. Stubby philips head screwdriver.

2. I used a Ryco Z201 filter but yours might be different

3. Water

Steps involved:

1. Ensure the engine is cold as you will lose some fuel in this process

2. The engine manual states that you first need to reduce the fuel pressure (by removing a fuse). I skipped this part. I found that there was not much fuel loss or pressure anyway.

3. At first, I could not remove when trying to loosen the hoses from around the filter as I could not twist the hose to break the seal. I then set about undoing the clip and removing the hose from the bottom where it joint the metal pipe (see first pic). The hose slips off a lot easier here. You will need the stubby screwdriver to access this area. Once this was off I removed the filter from the bracket (only lost a little bit of fuel) and twisted the hose around so I had a lot more access (see second pic). I then proceeded to remove the hoses from around the filter by loosening then twisting the hoses off.

4. Placed the new filter on and fixed the hoses in place. Don’t overtighted as you don’t want to break the plastic from around the filter.

5. I then washed away any spilt fuel with some water

6. Started the engine and checked that there were no fuel leaks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55323-r33-replacing-fuel-filter/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The fuel filter was about $25 but its probably different to the one you want. Just go into Autobahn or Repco and do a search through the parts catalogue to find the specific type.

Not sure what the price difference is to a genuine nissan filter. I plan to change mine about every 10,000k so the Ryco should be OK.

In one of my Z's i used to prime the fuel pump before the first start after this to cycle the fuel around and get rid of air let into the system.

Not sure if it is the same on the skyline or even necessary at all, but I do it.

In one of my Z's i used to prime the fuel pump before the first start after this to cycle the fuel around and get rid of air let into the system.  

Not sure if it is the same on the skyline or even necessary at all, but I do it.

The car did run a bit rough for the first minute after starting. How do you prime the fuel pump first?

Just turn the electrics on, you should hear the fuel pump whir as it pressurises the system, well, on the old cars anyways. Like i said, I am not sure about newer skylines etc.

This is just my logic as well, I have no confirmation or resources that tell/told me to do this :P

Maybe one of the mechanically trained members can shed some light?

  • 6 months later...

suck shit. we have all suffered too.

sorry about that, being serious they are really tight, if all else fails you can cut the hose and if needed replace the hose if there isn't enough play left in the remaining hose.

i have done mine twice and second time around it wasn't much easier.

suck shit.   we have all suffered too.  

sorry about that, being serious they are really tight, if all else fails you can cut the hose and if needed replace the hose if there isn't enough play left in the remaining hose.  

i have done mine twice and second time around it wasn't much easier.

Have also done this a couple of times.

I have memories of screwdrivers, leverage, a lot of cursing and a little blood (optional).

You'll get there.

El Bee

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...