Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i just installed a C's copy short shifter in my 33. installation was easy thanks to pranks DIY and it feels great, very solid and short. but its damn noisy as in i can actually hear the gearbox whine through the gears over the exhaust note. no noise prior to installation 2hrs before. just want to know if this is normal for a short shifter because of the way that its fixed onto the gearbox thru the base plate and clamps and that it transfers the noise of the gearbox thru the shifter itself. is this normal?? if not how can i reduce the noise?? my skyline sounds like my dads old crappy datsun:D:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55557-noisy-short-shifter-normal/
Share on other sites

It made an awful lot of noise on my car when I put one in, it was really loud and horrid. Ended up taking it out and sell it within a week. That was C's.

Not sure about Nismo short shifter, has anyone tried it? Perhaps Nismo one might be quieter?

probably due to the fact that the new shifter is a solid core, where as the original r33 one has a rubber-filled core to reduce stiffness and noise transfer... this is normal

that makes alot of sense, i can even hear the starter motor turning over chrisply thru the shifter itself..its bizzare. glad to hear that this sound is normal though it is slowly driving me nuts:D:D

It made an awful lot of noise on my car when I put one in, it was really loud and horrid. Ended up taking it out and sell it within a week. That was C's.

Not sure about Nismo short shifter, has anyone tried it? Perhaps Nismo one might be quieter?

I'm not sure about the Skyline Nismo shifter, but I know that the Nismo S13 Silvia/180sx shifter is no where near as short as the C's S13 shifter. The extra noise is the same with the S13 C's shifter so I've been told.

i have no idea what is making the noise, the top clamp is very tight... now that u mention it i might see if there is a gap between the spacer and the top plate / clamp..?

does the fact that it is solid have anything to do with it?

does it matter if the 'wave' washer is under the spacer rather than over it? its difficult to fix as i have no idea what is actually the casue..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...