Jump to content
SAU Community

Clutches!!!!!!!! Help!!! Ive Read The Back Threads!!!!!!!!


Recommended Posts

Hi Pplz, Can Any1 Help Me, I Just Purchase A 95 Gtst Manual Skyline, And When You Launch It The Clutch Is Sliping A Bit. I Would Like To Know If Any1 In Queensland Has Replaced A Clutch With A Heavier Duty Clutch And How Much It Cost Fully Fitted. By The Way I Live On The Sunny Coast So If Any Of U Guys From Up This Way Have Any Advice On Where To Go For Good Deals Plz Let Me Know. Thanx All.

Nicks is good Mick51 got a GTR clutch there for his R32. Best bet is go to somewhere like Nicks or in your case ring them up, tell them your problem, tell them what mods your planning to do and then do what they advise you to do

I got my clutch for around $300. It's got a 3000pound pressure plate and an organic friction plate. Hasn't missed a beat in over a year and a half :)

I got it from Nicks Performance Clutchs at Archerfield.

HI

I'll have to do my clutch soon (when I get back) - what sort of power does your car make? The furtherest I'll probably go will be 260 rwkw.

Rb30 bottom end, low mount, injectors etc. - TOURQUE

What car was the pressure plate from?

Just interested as some people have been talking about using patrol ones.

Is it hard to push in?

My other half's gotta drive it too.

Cheers

ATM I've got about 200rwkw.

At first it was a little bit harder than the standard one, but after a while it's really easy to get used to. Same with any clutch I guess?

I think they just took my clutch in and beefed it all up and put it back in.

It was $300 for the clutch and about $300 for fitting.

The following link is to the info that I found out when looking in april this year. Prices may have changed so use it as a guide only.

I found that looking over the past threads gave a lot of false costs (that may have been correct at the time of writing) so be careful and don't be afraid to call around yourself and get the current prices.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=38422

hope this helps.

I got a Nicks upgraded clutch first, I had 210 RWKW and it was brilliant. I have slightly more than that now and I upgraded to a 4 puck button clutch from Nicks. Clutch fitting should not cost any more than say $250-$300 so depending on what you pay for the clutch kit. If you buy a good clutch for around $400 you can expect to be paying around $650 or so including the install.

I got a Nicks upgraded clutch first, I had 210 RWKW and it was brilliant. I have slightly more than that now and I upgraded to a 4 puck button clutch from Nicks. Clutch fitting should not cost any more than say $250-$300 so depending on what you pay for the clutch kit. If you buy a good clutch for around $400 you can expect to be paying around $650 or so including the install.

How do you find the button clutch?

I've read from a lot of people that they are on/off - I don't really want that.

Can you drive them smoothly with practice?

This might seem obvious but why did you goto the second upgrade?

Was the first clutch slipping?

Dad and I'll do the install ourselves - do the input shaft bearings as well.

Will be heading for 250+rwkw not too far away - but want to avoid expensive twin plates if possible.

Thanks

Hey dude...welcome to the club..you got your sjyline finally...hey just curious,.did you buy this line as it is ? we could meet up sometime and have a look at my clutch and feel the difference..as i have a heavy duty on mine.

its me by the way..the one who drove along side you when you were driving the 200sx.

Good stuff fellas.

Still interested in how button clutches are - I've never driven with one - just wondering if driving smoothly is possible?

Will be doing upgrade in jan -

Cheers!

yeah nismo33 i know who u are. silver 33 with gts tripes hey. nice ride. well you will definately see me out in mine, white gtst with white 17"rims 85URK plates. usually go for a roll on sundays. my mates other car is a gt forester black with plates OGT01. i bought the car as is, have only had it a week. but already loving it!!!! clutch seems to be ok for now, hasnt really slipped much since that day i picked it up, but i will run it down and when it goes il repplace it, no use throwing it in the bin before its time. not really planning on any mod as of yet, but will do in the future when i get more cash.( the root of all evil) anyway holla if u see me out . peace

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 2 years later!
    • Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
    • The once piece tail shafts with cv type joints on either end are the ones that end up vibrating and the vibration is caused by the cv joint binding as it turns, I’ve also seen them explode from the binding 
    • Take this with a pinch of salt, it's from someone (me) who got annoyed with turbos entirely. I hated aftermarket lines. If I had the option to use hardlines with whatever turbo I had - I would use them, 10/10, 100% of the time. The only reason people go larger, heat resistent, shielded lines etc is because they have to. And yes they don't last forever. Even if you spend big bucks on all the best heat shielding money can buy, with the best heat resistant, fuel resistant, oil resistant, radiation resistant hose, they get stiff and break down and just don't last the way a metal pipe will.
    • Unfortunately I am quite literally halfway across the globe. So all sources for parts like that are far away for me. What do you mean by that exactly?
×
×
  • Create New...