Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I was wondering if anyone has any info or websites about when to service ur car.

I have an R33 gtst and was wondering when to change engine oil, gearbox oil.. etc and which oil to use for the different thing.

If anyone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/
Share on other sites

Change the oil yourself, should take less than 15 minutes. That way you know what's being used in your car. I would change it every 5000km or so personally, and depending on the quality of the filter I would change it every 5000 or 10000.

Other fluids (brake, transmission, diff, clutch) don't need to be changed for 50000 or 100000km. So change them all when you get the car and forget about them for the next few years.

According to the owner's manual, the transmission fluid NEVER needs to be changed if the car is used for private use, and at 100000 if it's used for business. Personally I would change it no later than 100000 regardless.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-86727
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

JimX: Do you know what specs the transmission oil should be??

Someone told me the performance of the trans oil should be suited to the engine oil. I've got Shell Helix Ultra (5W-40) in there at the moment. In the past few weeks the gear changes have become a bit "klunky". I was gonna change the oil to see if it has any effect. The car has done 96,000km if that helps.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-104799
Share on other sites

I don't know much about tranny oil, except that Lightweight Shockproof is good for new gearboxes and Heavyweight is good for worn ones, or ones used for racing. If it's only a bit clunky and not crunching, I would go the Lightweight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-104822
Share on other sites

Guys can you please list what engine oil you use ? I -BADLY- need to change my oil (like within the next 3 seconds) otherwise things are going to fall apart.

I know its done 8,500km+ on the current oil with nothing changed. :D

I have no idea of what oil to use and the 1 thats currently in there (http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/4s.../4stroke12.html) i have no idea where to find (the normal places don't stock it)

Any help would be appreciated and the quicker the better.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-105211
Share on other sites

I've used Castrol synthetic oil for my last 2 oil changes. I can't remember the names/grades, but it was from Auto 1 and they had 2 types. I got the cheap stuff the first time ($50) and the expensive stuff the second tmie ($70). I think I'll continue to run with the latter for all future oil changes.

I've still got the bottles at home, I can go look it up if you're that interested. Otherwise just ring up Auto 1 and ask them about their synthetic oil. They also sell Mobil 1 which I think was $60.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-105244
Share on other sites

I use Mobil 1. change it every 5000km... im sure changing the

oil makes a difference.. it's like the oil tends to harden as

time goes by... it revs more freely... I change my oil filter with

this.. takes 15 minutes...

benm,

It's easy.. all u need is a jack.. a size 14 socket.. the tool to

remove the oil filter.. and a drip tray.. and u'r away...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-105331
Share on other sites

Benm, the oil I'm running atm is Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W-60. The oil I had previous to this was Castrol Formula R Synthetic 5W-30.

Duncan, do you run Motul full or semi synth? I use semi in my motorcycle because full synth is supposedly not good for the wet clutch, and it costs about $40 for 4 litres. The full synth was about $100 :eek: Just wondering if the price was around the same for the car grade oils. The bike only takes 3 litres so I always have 1 litre left over after every oil change :P (doesn't use a single drop between changes)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-105860
Share on other sites

I use Penzoil synthetic for the engine oil.

I don't remember the numbers but it is labelled for high performance cars or for turbo cars or something along those lines.

I change the oil filter every second oil change.

I changed the gearbox oil a few months back.

Once again, Penzoil Lightweight shock proof oil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-106123
Share on other sites

I went to AutoOne yesterday and asked afew guys down there, they rang Castrol, Pennzoil and another store and they all recommended the 'Castrol Magnatec' (same as what a mate uses and was told to use in his Skyline).

It only cost me $26 (5L) but looking at the other high performance Oils they were all like $70-80 (5L).

I haven't changed it yet but is this oil ok or should i exchange it for something different? (I honestly have no idea just gone by what u all said on here and the guys at the store said).

??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-106128
Share on other sites

Ok i did it all by myself and it was a piece of piss. Took me about 30mins and i got alittle dirty but it was fun.

Can't really tell if its made any immediate difference, i think it might feel alittle smoother going up thru the gears at high revs but that may also be coz i havent been on turbo for afew days coz of the rain.

I want to change the Transmission Oil now (something REALLY good). I've had afew noises appear in 2nd gear in the last 4 days and i was hoping it was just because the engine oil had done 10,000km but after changing the oil the noise is still their now and then. (maybe 3x a day for 1sec each).

Where do i check/change the transmission Oil of a 5sp manual ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-107326
Share on other sites

Transmission oil is a bitch of a job to do at home. You certainly can do it and I have done it myself on other cars, but personally I'd rather pay a mechanic to do it. They will put it up on a hoist and use a hand pump to pump the fluid in and it's all very easy and quick. Compare this to what you'd have to do at home especially if you don't have a pump and you can see why I don't mind paying a few bucks to have it done cleaner and quicker.

I paid Midas $60 to change my transmission, diff, and clutch fluids, with them supplying the clutch fluid and me supplying the rest. In and out in under half an hour (only maybe 15 minutes actually spent on the car), which would have been a half-day job for me at home :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-107350
Share on other sites

Engine oil: Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W-60

Transmission oil: Redline Heavyweight Shockproof

Diff oil: No idea :P It was just heavy duty stuff designed for limited slip diffs I bought from Auto 1, cost about $20.

Since the diff doesn't have synchros to crunch I thought there was much less of a reason to put expensive oil in there. But I guess I will bite the bullet and get some Redline oil for the diff if I manage to blow it. So far so good :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-107385
Share on other sites

Originally posted by JimX

Duncan, do you run Motul full or semi synth? I use semi in my motorcycle because full synth is supposedly not good for the wet clutch, and it costs about $40 for 4 litres.

It was the fully synth, and cost about $50 for 4.5 litres, but there was labour on top of that (done at a workshop)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-107394
Share on other sites

I DO MY OIL CHANGES EVERY 7500KM'S, I US MOTUL OIL, ITS ABOUT $80 4 5LITRES. IF U R DOING UR RADIATOR I RECCOMEND U USE NISSAN LONGLIFE COOLANT AS THE SKYLINES ARE SENSETIVE TO THE COOLANT U USE, OH AND DONT FORGET TO CHANGE THE OIL FILTER PS. I DO THE SERVICE AT HOME AND IT TAKES ME ABOUT 1HR

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5592-when-to-service/#findComment-108019
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...