Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i can tell u that u wont hit a water jacket coz on my rb25 head i have taken the lumps rite out of the exhaust side, wouldnt even know they used to be there now, just wondering if it was a bad thing to do or not. Who knows, guess i will find out

I remember reading up one this when my head was being ported.

The lumps are there to increase exhaust gas velocity. Unsure exactly as it has been a while now :(

It also looks to me as if they are there to help steer the exhaust gas in the stock exhaust manifold.

Ace_nz, I take it you're talking about the graph on the website? The inlet started to pick up at around .200" through to about .420". From what I remember, it flattened off around there which was fine, the cams were step 2 HKS, around .410" lift(10.2-3mm) from memory.

The exhaust picked up right from .050" and stayed between 15-20CFM over the standard port right through the range. I was subletting my flow testing at that stage and Ive looked around for the original sheet but cant find it. The air speed was up over standard, noticeably on the intake side from memory. I should have some new really small pitot tubes soon so I can get them in the port to measure velocity without disturbing the air as much. I think in a smaller port most of them are far too big.

Joel, I put the head on the block and scribe the bore onto the head surface then use a radius cutter to open the chamber to this line and blend it into the chamber, it also removes the step on the transition of the valve seat into the chamber. When I test the next head I'll try it first without it and test and then unshroud the valves and check again. I did a B6 mazda head the same way recently and you could measure the difference before and after on the flowbench. It also removes a couple of hotspots on the exhaust side as it removes a couple of sharp edges. Also, thanks for the compliment.

Sweetr33, thanks, thats good to know.

It's interesting, I remember seeing a RB26 head done by Jun i think, and they machined out the entire quench area of the head, I'd like to know the theory behind it and whether they use a different shaped dome on the piston. Anyone know?

I remember now where I saw it, on their website, this is what they say:

The occurrence of a knocking is controlled by removing squish area. Squish area exists in order to bring combustion speed forward. The role of squish area is pushing out the inhaled fuel-air mixture to near a spark plug. However, in the case of tuning engine, the squish area causes natural ignition and a knocking is caused. In order to pull up limit of the occurrence of a knocking , squish area is deleted and adjusted.

I know these guys have the runs on the board but I'm a little lost. As far as I know, the squish area is there to provide a shockwave to force the fuel and air into the combustion chamber and towards the sparkplug (which is what they say above in engrish). I could understand raduising the edges of the two flat areas to remove hotspots but wouldn't removing it altogether mean you ended up with a pocket of unburnt fuel on each side of the piston dome?

Its interesting what Jun has done.

Everything being equal (comp ratio) between a quenched and non-quenched motor I can't under stand how the non-quenched motor would have less detonation.

If anything I would think it would be more prone to detonation due to the larger cc head volume. As one increases head volume you also increase the amount of hot exhaust gas that is left in the combustion chamber after every exhaust stroke.

I was under the impression it was always best to have a combustion chamber that had as less volume as possible, lots of nice quench designed around certian rpm bands for which the motor is designed around & a nice dished piston to get the comp ratio you are after.

I've got some more reading to do so I can understand the reasons behind what they have done.. :)

Joel, exactly what I was thinking. Everything I've ever read and seen says that the smaller the combustion chamber (without shrouding the valves too much) and the flattest piston top you can get will give less detonation.

I know its a long way from an RB engine, but the old ford clevelands detonate less at the same compression with a closed chamber and flat top piston than an open chamber and domed piston.

With the engine design of the RB25/26's theres really no way to use a flat top piston and run the compression you need. With my 30 I'm going to have some pistons made by Mahle to suit, my aim is 8.5:1.

I much prefer the SR20 piston and chamber, dished piston and less valve angle but with the RB you're stuck with the angles nissan made them at.

I've got nasty pic of an RB20DET head.

Before any one asks. The RB20DET in the pic had its 100,000km cam belt fitted, the tensioner stud snapped due to possible over tightening resulting in smashed valves. I made sure I replaced studs in my RB30DET build. :)

Notice the lack of or very little quench area.

From what I understand a smaller quench area creates a motor that is peaky, the more quench the more mid range style of motor it will be.

Am I on the right track?

Its been a while since I looked in to the whole quench side of things so I may be getting things a little mixed up. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...