Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am about to upgrade factory wheels and compliance tyres to 17", and would like anyone and everyone's opinions/testimonials on the tyres that I have narrowed it down to (I am looking for a good performance tyre in wet and dry, good value for money, fairly quiet, but nothing over the top as I won't be racing with them):

Sumitomo HTRZ II vs. Falken ZE326?

Any experience, positive or negative for either would be very much appreciated.

Thanks!

Oh, and pros and cons of 235-45-17 vs. 225-45-17?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56056-falken-vs-sumitomo/
Share on other sites

I've got a set of sumi's and they're not real flash in the wet... but I haven't used falkens, so I don't know what they're like...

I drove a mates GTR recently, and he had a set of the silica tread Hankook Ventus K104's on and they were excellent, probably the best value for money around but not the best.

With anything these days, you pay for what you get.

Happy hunting...

falken 326 are the worst tyres I have ever driven on.

I've never tried the sumitomos.

But why would you buy a performance car and then put POS tyres on it. Tyres will make more difference than *any* other mod. Try Falken FK451 they are excellent road tyres

Sumitomo make Falken for australia anyway.

Buy a set of Tornado's...they're cheap, they stick like shit to a blanket and they last ages.

326 suck

HTRZ II are alright, try another model though...there are better in that range....as with most brands.

Yoko AVS100 are the shizzne

Michelin are expensive but make the best tyres on the market...no exceptions

Dunlop are crap even the ones that come stock on the Monaro's and HSV's (S04's from memory)

But I got 230 RWKW and the Tornado's have trouble stepping out in second. Plus I got 45 thousand outta my last set.

z326 is one of the worst tyre in term of grip, but they are cheap and have MANY size available.

fk451 are not bad(but not very good), bit noisy i think.

GIII is one of the best tyre i ever used, decent price, VERY good grip

Michelin are expensive but make the best tyres on the market <- agree

pilot sport are the best, lots of grip, not noisy as jap tyre, decent life, killer price...

recommend GIII, 100% won't disappoint!

Falken FK451 are sux! can only feel its grip in first 2 months after i bought them, no grip at all after,esp in the wet, its fine to use them as the rear tyres, coz its real fun to spin with, but never use them for your front!

sorry but i totally disagree. my stock gtst has done a 1.57 around eastern creek on fk451 with a passenger. they are excellent road tyres for a good price.

you might be thinking of fk326 which are a POS.

OK thanks guys... I have eliminated the Falken ZE326 from the race, but are still getting some very positive reviews (mostly US-based) for the Sumi HTRZ II's (a couple from Mustang GT drivers in US).

I'll throw two more in the mix though - anyone know anything about BFGoodrich's G-Force Sport, or how good Falken ZE512's are? (and yes, I have used the Search facility too! :) )

falken 326 are the worst tyres I have ever driven on.

:werd:

I 3rd or 5th that.. screw ZE326! I ended up getting some for my r33.. lasted about 10 months and shithouse grip the whole time before i sold the car (as one of the reasons was i needed to spend $1000 on new tyres). I guess I never did crash using them (bonus?) You'll never get good 1/4 times out of them :)

Because of them I've turned against Falkens completely.. even the ZE512's aren't meant to be that great either (only slightly better grip and similar shithouse lifespan). Spoken to a few drivers who have had them also.

You have a high performance car If you want to live through you'r first big mistake in the wet...buy the best tyres you can scrape up the money for. Save the shitty 'wouldbe performance tyres' for the track...where they won't kill you

i had ze326 on my atmo R31, when i got a flat one day on the back, the spare had some nankang thing on it, the ze326 was that bad that when i tromped it the falken lost traction but the nankang wouldnt, and actually smashed the recenty rebuilt LSD, true story.

dont get ZE326s

cheers

Linton

You have a high performance car If you want to live through you'r first big mistake in the wet...buy the best tyres you can scrape up the money for.   Save the shitty 'wouldbe performance tyres' for the track...where they won't kill you

werd werd werd

people spend $2k on a front mount intercooler but won't pay for good tyres?

which one do you think improves your car's performance more.

A clue, a front mount might be worth 5% extra rwkw. Not much point if those wheels are already spinning :P

werd werd werd  

people spend $2k on a front mount intercooler but won't pay for good tyres?

which one do you think improves your car's performance more.  

A clue, a front mount might be worth 5% extra rwkw.  Not much point if those wheels are already spinning :P

Very true, but its worth extra bragging writes at the pub.

yeah.. but so does a great 1/4 mile or track time :P

Speaking from experience, I learned my lesson after spending $1000 on a set of the ZE326.. $300+ per tyre or may as well get the cheapest shit you can get. "In between" tyres aren't worth it

i used to only buy good tyres, but then i never drive it really hard on street. Mostly curising and good performance tyre worn out quicker.

so recently i bought some simex, cheap as chips and seems last forever.

keep the money i save to invest on some semi-slick, allow myself to drive hard at place it should be :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...