Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok pplz, i noticed the other day when i got up my car a bit and took it to 7 grand it hit rev limiter in second before changing into third, and when i slowed down to a stop to turn into a street the car stalled? was this a result of the rev litmiter telling the computer to shut down so not to damage the engine or something else??? any ideas??? has this happened to any1 else, and also on idle sometimes it revs between 650rpm and 900rpm but goes up and down and fells like its going to stall?? thanx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56234-rev-limiter-on-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites

nah not caused by the rev limit, rb25s love running there :D

I've really needed someone to answer this question too.

Everytime I take it past around 6,000rpm I feel really guilty and bad for my poor baby :P

Are RB25DET's really rev happy? Like Honda VTEEKKKK BROOOO motors?

Try your throttle body.. Sometimes they become clogged and need to be cleaned out.

My car was acting like a spastic and revving like a retard and stalling so they cleaned the throttle body out and it came all good! Could be something as easy as that and a coincidence that it happened when you revved it out

definetly not related to the rev limit..

probably electrical related, such as AFM(i would try cleaning this before trying other things), spark plugs, or maybe a timing problem. also look for air leaks, check all the hoses.

well ive read another forum post in here and it opened up a can of worms! there are so many things to try and fix huh, afm, idle sensor etc etc. im convinced now that alot of skylines have this problem stocl or modded. they stall and play up on idle and deceleration sometimes. its all trial and error i suppose by the looks of it. it hasnt played up much only that once and i got a bit worried that i thrashed it too hard and it did something bad to it, but obviously not, by reading in here about it. so ive figured that step 1 :check and clean all meters and contacts and check hoses for cracks. thats a start i suppose. but i dont think my particular car has anything wrong with it, just that 1 time like it states in other posts, the fuel pump earth could be the problem. anyway thanx for the info pplz. i dunno what id do without this forum! good job guys keep em coming. 85URK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...