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Changing injector plugs...intake manifold off...any cautions?


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Hey all,

I am changing my injector plugs as some are very fatigued...I am going to change the whole lot to be safe, but I will need to take the intake manifold (top) off to get to the back 3 injectors......is there anything I need to be aware of when doing this? I have never done this particular job before and never seen it either.....so just want to make sure I can put it all back together when its done....

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,

Corey.

PS: My engine is an RB20DET in a R32 GTS4.

It is possible to get at the injectors with only the throttle body off.

Its a pain in the arse and will leave you with a sore lower back due to bending over for so long.. :)

Everything is straight forward.

Ring nissan and find out what a plenum to inlet manifold gasket is worth. It will probably rip when you seperate.

Change the fuel line hose that attaches to the rear fuel reg while you are there.

Mine was very very perrished.

Another fuel hose that actually had cracks in it as it was that bad was the fuel hose under the fuel filter. Change all fuel hoses it is well worth it.

Shop around. Some places want $10 a meter others want a stupid $20 for fuel INJECTION hose.

I asked for some fuel line hose they gave me the std stuff only to find out later on I was very very lucky for it not to pop. :)

cool, thanks alot guys!.....made things much easier!

I will probabaly just take the throttle body off and do it that way seeing as you guys have done it with not much trouble.

Do I need to know anything special when removing the throttle body?

Cheers,

Corey.

Nope just an allan key... 4.5mm or 5mm from memory... once the crossover pipe is off there are some coolant hoses that run to the bottom of the t/b that you will have to remove (there will be some spillage) and unplug the tps.... I think thats all...

while I had the t/b off I also gave it a good clean with some carby cleaner.. .

i did this two weeks back on my RB20. i didn’t take anything off. all you need is a bit of patience.

start the car, remove the fuel pump fuse. once the car stops running try cranking it a few more times to remove the fuel pressure in the lines

remove the blow-by hose from rocket cover to the plenum, remove the fuel lines from the rail, unplug the injectors, unscrew the two bolts holding the rail and then slowly pull the whole rail with injectors out and slide it towards the front of the car.

as ed g said, don't loose the little metal clips.

when putting them back in, go the same way, just reverse.

i was advised to put some vaseline on the little O-rings when putting the injectors back in so they don’t get damaged. i ended up using some good old water based lubricant. :bahaha: don't use any oil based stuff as it will swell up.

put the fuse back in and turn the key. wait for the fuel line to be pressurised and the check for any leaks. start the car and check again.

LOL...

Thanks heaps guys......I shouldn't have any difficulties with all the info I have now! :-)

I will actually get to start doing it today.....finally! things allways come up, and generally take 3 times aslong to do them...:-(

Cheers,

Corey.

:-)

I didnt bother doing that.... just spilled a bit of fuel lol

Just be careful.. the line is pressurised and will squirt out...

I dont actually know where the fuse is in a 32.. mine is in a S13 and I had the loom made the to suit the s13 fuse box

In the boot under on the right hand side under the carpet there is a little grey piece of sheet metal that is shaped to protect a plug.

Unbolt this plate and disconnect the plug.

Thats the only way I found to disable the fuel pump in the R32's.

I was unable to find a fuse. :P

It is possible to get at the injectors with only the throttle body off.

Its a pain in the arse and will leave you with a sore lower back due to bending over for so long.. :P

As I have had to take the head off and just about everything else on my RB20DET recently, and because I am old and frail, I worked out that getting my fold up ladder that can act as a painting trestle to lay on while over the top of the motor certainly saved me a lot of back pain :(

For anyone thats interested, I eventually bought a Metal 1.0mm Grex/Trust Steel Shim Head Gasket from AUTOBARN for $309 and coated it with copper sealant spray both sides before refitting the head.

I was going to fit the standard gasket but could not face another episode of it blowing out the drags again :Oops:

AS I am looking for 250AWKW I thought it may be good insurance!

I do have the workshop man.. but it's at home, you would have to wait until 3pm qld time if you want me to check it... but like I said.. follow joels suggestion

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