Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by russcb007

If you like you could send me a set I'll do some tests and drive around with them and let you know if there are any problems...

Cheers,

Russ

Thanks....But we have no shortage of volunteers, just quality feedback at the moment.:uh-huh:

I.E

Warpage, Thermal Shudder, Cold Shudder, Pad problems, ect

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-85780
Share on other sites

Hi Steve,

Been meaning to talk to you guys about some uprated discs, perhaps you need a development car:D

Street driving, even hard - never had a problem. No fade, nothing.

Track driving. This gets very frustrating after 5 quick laps, I get significant fade, and I can't stay on the pace coz I'm not willing to trust them into the corner.

I have run nissan standard pads, ebc greenstuff and bendix ultimates, and stuck with the bendix coz they have great initial bite. Terrible for dust though. Discs need machining every time I replace the pads, but I guess that is more the due to the pad being agressive than any inherant problem with the rotor.

Never had an issue with warping on the skyline, but I always cool down before stopping (& no handbrake).

A lot of us will be going to Eastern Creek for the afternoon on 21/11, perhaps you could drop by then, should be up to 10 skylines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-85822
Share on other sites

Hmmm!

Uprated discs :P

This what I do.

Thursday 21st right?

What time in the afternoon?

R33 GTS-T

Rotors = DBA 926 (296mm x 32mm)? (or the other GTS-T 310mm)

Pad part number = DB ????

I know of a few solutions for this problem. Please confirm the part numbers and I will see what we can do.

I would like to come out to Eastern Creek and have a look.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-85832
Share on other sites

Thursday 21st is 1-5 in the afternoon.

The car is an R33 GTS-T series II (1997), do I just measure the discs side to side to work out if they are 296 or 310. No idea of part number.

Front pads are DB-1170, rear DB-1220

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-85844
Share on other sites

gday

ive got an R33 S1 gtst auto

i find that on the track the only pads i can use that dont fade

are kentek metal, although the down side to these is they chew the discks a bit and they squeal a lot when the dust builds up.

apparently the gtst has a lot of squeal issues with brakes.

on the up side these pads stop realy well !!

i have asked around for which discs are best suited to track use without breaking the budget , and have been told the standard

solid items are best

i have been also told on a large number of occasions to steer clear of the dba slotted or dirlled rotors if using for track because they apparently warp much easier than standard units

i would be interested to see what else is available or recommended as my rotors are due for replacement in about 4 weeks im already on minimum thickness.and i would like to replace them with someting better than standard.

send me an email if you want more infor on the punishment my brakes receive

[email protected]

glad to help

Martin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-85868
Share on other sites

Originally posted by MYGTST

gday

i have asked around for which discs are best suited to track use without breaking the budget , and have been told the standard

solid items are best

i have been also told on a large number of occasions to steer clear of the dba slotted or dirlled rotors if using for track because they apparently warp much easier than standard units

i would be interested to see what else is available or recommended as my rotors are due for replacement in about 4 weeks im already on minimum thickness.and i would like to replace them with someting better than standard.

send me an email if you want more infor on the punishment my brakes receive

[email protected]

glad to help

Martin

Thanks,

I've heard these comments about our rotors on the track a few times and it is a fair statement regarding our rotors on some cars. Basically they are designed for for street use and can only handle street generated temperatures.

What we have been developing for the past few years is a track orientated rotor for street cars (Club Spec). There are a few cars in the upcoming Bathurst 24 hour race using these discs and certain cars have been using them for the last 2 to 3 years.

We are only just starting on the Skylines for this class of rotor and this is the main reason I've jumped on this forum.

We have a few GTR (Club Spec) rotors for trials in Japan and it sounds like we need to do a few GTS ones as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-86061
Share on other sites

I don't understand... Don't you already have discs for skylines? They're listed in your catalogue, and I have them on my car...

Front

AP Racing 6 Piston Calipers

DBA 330mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (Two Piece Rotors w/ Seperate Mounting Hat)

BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines

Ferrodo DS3000 (Track) / DS2500 (Road) Brake Pads

Rear

Nissan 2 Piston Calipers

DBA 294mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (One Piece Rotors)

BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines

Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pads

127-2778_IMG.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-86164
Share on other sites

Has anyone noticed that when the slotted discs are not slotted all the way to the outer edge that a groove starts to wear at the tip of the slot around the circumference of the disc.

Im assuming this is from where pad material builds up and cannot clear out thru the caliper etc. I have noticed some slotted discs are grooved all the way to the edge, is this the reason to stop this local build up of used pad and erosion of disc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-86183
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Merli

I don't understand... Don't you already have discs for skylines? They're listed in your catalogue, and I have them on my car...

Front

AP Racing 6 Piston Calipers

DBA 330mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (Two Piece Rotors w/ Seperate Mounting Hat)

BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines

Ferrodo DS3000 (Track) / DS2500 (Road) Brake Pads

Rear

Nissan 2 Piston Calipers

DBA 294mm 'Kangaroo Paw' Slotted Rotors (One Piece Rotors)

BF Goodridge Braided Brake Lines

Ferrodo DS2500 Brake Pads

Very nice!

That looks like a Gavsport setup using some of our U.S export rotors and aluminium hats made by them. These kits are assembled by the brake workshops. The rears are off the shelf.

I was talking about direct O.E replacement rotors modified for track use. Basically the rotors listed in the catalogue but with a few tweaks. The setup you have is the ultimate for your car.

Sorry to confuse. Keep asking questions please.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-86191
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Roy

Has anyone noticed that when the slotted discs are not slotted all the way to the outer edge that a groove starts to wear at the tip of the slot around the circumference of the disc.

Im assuming this is from where pad material builds up and cannot clear out thru the caliper etc. I have noticed some slotted discs are grooved all the way to the edge, is this the reason to stop this local build up of used pad and erosion of disc.

You are exactly right.

These are some of the tweaks that can be done. Its not recommended to slot a standard street rotor to the outside edge because of the increased risk of cracking. Discs using modified material can be slotted to the outside as per the picture I posted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-86196
Share on other sites

Originally posted by dbasteve

Very nice!

That looks like a Gavsport setup using some of our U.S export rotors and aluminium hats made by them. These kits are assembled by the brake workshops. The rears are off the shelf.

I was talking about direct O.E replacement rotors modified for track use. Basically the rotors listed in the catalogue but with a few tweaks. The setup you have is the ultimate for your car.

Sorry to confuse. Keep asking questions please. [/b]

Ahhh I see...

Well I had standard brakes and I boiled the brake fluid on the back straight of Wakefield in 4 laps (including 1 warmup lap, so really 3 laps)...

So I spoke to Kevin Gavin and we put together a suitable brake package for my horsepower levels...

For more standard cars that see track work, I would suggest just a simple Kangaroo Paw core, with perhaps a stronger metal composite for better wear characteristics that can withstand harsh metallic trackwork pads, and still last a decent amount of time...

I know a few people do what I do and use a harsher compund pad for the track, but fear that we'll eat through the rotors...

Strong rotors, one set of pads for street and one for track, braided lines and good brake fluid should be all most cars need...

....in my humble opinion obviously. If I'm wrong, please correct me Steve.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-86242
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Merli

Ahhh I see...

Well I had standard brakes and I boiled the brake fluid on the back straight of Wakefield in 4 laps (including 1 warmup lap, so really 3 laps)...  

So I spoke to Kevin Gavin and we put together a suitable brake package for my horsepower levels...

For more standard cars that see track work, I would suggest just a simple Kangaroo Paw core, with perhaps a stronger metal composite for better wear characteristics that can withstand harsh metallic trackwork pads, and still last a decent amount of time...  

I know a few people do what I do and use a harsher compund pad for the track, but fear that we'll eat through the rotors...

Strong rotors, one set of pads for street and one for track, braided lines and good brake fluid should be all most cars need...

....in my humble opinion obviously. If I'm wrong, please correct me Steve.

Your on the ball mate.

Has anyone used DS 3000 pads?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-86376
Share on other sites

Originally posted by dbasteve

Has anyone used DS 3000 pads?

I put DS3000s in everytime I goto the track... I quickly swap out the DS2500s, and put the DS3000s in when I change my wheels to track rims and rubber... Takes an extra 5 minutes per wheel and personally I reckon they're awesome...

No fade whatsoever (this is probably a combination of pads, rotors and fluid though), and they haul my ass up 100%, every single corner, no matter how late I brake, or how long I stay out there for...

Noisy as hell though, and everyone thinks my car is going to fall apart when I drive to and from the track with the DS3000s, and obviously very dusty.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5677-disc-rotors/#findComment-86452
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...