Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sorry if it sounds like a stupid q, but can't you get that sort of power out of your gtr without an ecu upgrade? or do you want it for other reasons, ie saftey of motor?

na not a stupid questions at all i rekon its very possible to get that power with a stock ecu but id like to know if its worth the money to upgrade the ecu for the reason you said safety plus,idle,driveability etc

Just wondering what you guys are using or would recommend..

The car is going to be used for street use only with the idea to run 200-250kw @ the wheels..

Personally ive heard the Power Fc is the way to go?

Any comments would be appericiated.

Power FC is the way to go. Trust me when you have "200-250kw" for a while, you will want more....then a little bit more...then just squeeze some low mounts in there......and so on, and so on.

Stock ecu may cope. Power FC all the way. Do it once, do it right.

If your only going for that much power just get the standard chip remapped.

thats where it get tricky caus a chips is say $800-900..

aiming for 240kw@wheels..

but say i plan to keep the car for a while longer and I have the cash for a turbo up grade later on il most liklely need a computer uprgade? Correct

Power FC is the way to go. Trust me when you have "200-250kw" for a while, you will want more....then a little bit more...then just squeeze some low mounts in there......and so on, and so on.

Stock ecu may cope. Power FC all the way. Do it once, do it right.

I think you are getting my drift now, i have had the car for about a year and a half and ive just cleaned it up to my liking..

Id rather do it once as you say because you just end up spending twice too many times...

I got a R32 GTR with just under 250kw's at the wheels, currently running a tuned Power FC. Extremely happy with it, made a big improvement. Best thing is, that basically anymore performance upgrades I do, is totally within the power FC's limits :(

I got a R32 GTR with just under 250kw's at the wheels, currently running a tuned Power FC. Extremely happy with it, made a big improvement. Best thing is, that basically anymore performance upgrades I do, is totally within the power FC's limits :)

What other mods have you done to your car?

Totally agree about the potential of the power fc thats why i wouldnt rush out and get just a chip..

The only prob i believe is the pfc is not plug in and its pretty expensive to tune..

What other mods have you done to your car?

Totally agree about the potential of the power fc thats why i wouldnt rush out and get just a chip..

The only prob i believe is the pfc is not plug in and its pretty expensive to tune..

Power FC is definitely Plug in!

Other mods are..

HKS front pipes

Trust cat back exhaust

'Steel Wheel' stock turbo's

Apexi pod filters

HKS cam gears

11.5psi made 220 rwkw's and 14psi made 248rwkw's.

And I disagree with the power Fc being expensive to tune. BUT it does all depend on who you take it too AND what mods you have.

Power FC is definitely Plug in!

Other mods are..

HKS front pipes

Trust cat back exhaust

'Steel Wheel' stock turbo's

Apexi pod filters

HKS cam gears

11.5psi made 220 rwkw's and 14psi made 248rwkw's.

And I disagree with the power Fc being expensive to tune. BUT it does all depend on who you take it too AND what mods you have.

Hi there;

this is exactly the type of build I'm going to do and the bost level I'm wanting to run with the exception that I have N1s. can I ask where you got it tuned please?

Power FC is definitely Plug in!

Other mods are..

HKS front pipes

Trust cat back exhaust

'Steel Wheel' stock turbo's

Apexi pod filters

HKS cam gears

11.5psi made 220 rwkw's and 14psi made 248rwkw's.

And I disagree with the power Fc being expensive to tune. BUT it does all depend on who you take it too AND what mods you have.

Once again thanks heaps for the info!

I have been quoted around $600-700 to get the Power Fc and tuned?

Do you thinks that is around the mark..

Yeah, I can't believe PFC with tune =$600-700 too, that's more likely is the price for the remap chip + tune. PFC is good, but Motec is much better.

sorry guys my mistake around $400 to get it tuned and around hopefully around $1200-1400 for the pfc...

Know anyone thats sells them cheaper???

Nengun / Greenline will be the cheapest you will find (new).  

If that is too much then try and source yourself a second hand FC, but even then, they wont be all that much cheaper.

i have got a quote of brent@ nengun $850 my only concen ordering direct out of japan is warranty side of things?? Has anyone ordered out direct out of japan??

Any one have a web page for Greenline is he in Aus?

$850 would be without the hand controller. Warranty shouldn't be an issue. If you have a problem just send it back and he should sort it out. He is pretty good like that....

Greenline is in Japan also. www.greenline.jp

Im waiting on a price from a mates workshop if its too expensive il most likely go throught brent..

Do you think i should buy it with a hand controller, ive managed to finda few places in melb that have a hand controller to tune it?

Why spend the money now??? What mods does your car have? to give you an example, my car made 230rwkw on 10psi. Stock ECU, AFM's, pump, injectors, turbos, I/C. Aftermarket pods, front pipes, 3inch exhaust.

If I were you I would stick with the stock ECU UNTIL you are ready to upgrade the parts that require a different ECU (being injectors, AFM's, Turbos). That is what I am doing. I'll be getting the PFC once I upgrade a few parts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...