Jump to content
SAU Community

another boost guage question

warpz0r

By warpz0r,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

warpz0r Proficient

warpz0r

Posted
Posted

hi all

i have a rb20det in my vl commy

im going to install a boost guage but i keep reading to install it up near the plenum?

wouldnt you install it closest to the turbo so i know what pressure the turbo is putting out and not what pressure the plenum is recieving after going round pipes and through the intercooler?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/57648-another-boost-guage-question/
Share on other sites
josh303 Apprentice

josh303

Posted
Posted

hey mate, i would install it as close to the plenum as possible so you know exactly what boost the engine it getting after the boost drop has occurred in the plumbing, there wont be alot of boost drop though unles you have a leak.

i think it's just better to know what the motor is getting??

josh303 Apprentice

josh303

Posted
Posted

i guess it just comes down to personel preference in the end??

it wont really make alot of difference where you hook it up, just do it in the most convenient place, away from heat sources (exhaust) to protect the hose. try make the hose as short as possible so your guage respondes quicker.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

If you are running a stock ceramic turbo, then it's probably safest to get the signal at the compressor. Then you can be safe in the knowledge that the exhaust wheel is not going to let go and de-glaze your bores.

If you have a steel exhaust wheel, then it's probably best to know exactly how much boost the engine is trying to ingest, and therefore pick up the signal at the plenum.

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

Jun's 1000hp R33 GTR has 2 boost gadges and 3 water temp gadges...

1 x boost at turbo

1 x boost at plenium

1 x temp inbetween cyl1-2

1 x temp inbetween cyl3-4

1 x temp inbetween cyl5-6

Thats the only way to have all the info i guess......!!! (Too much money)

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted
Just put the adaptor that you get with the gauge onto the back of the plenum where the factory boost gauge gets its reading from. Its facing the firewall, the fitting should screw stright in.

Thats what I did when installing mine in the new car the other day.. The adapter screw fits into the standard plenum position perfectly (was a Speco gauge and std. kit it comes with). Unscrew the stock one, screw direct in the plenum. All done - nice plenum reading.

Jengi Collaborator

Jengi

Posted
Posted

A 1000hp package requires that degree of monitoring given that you're sitting on a hand grenade and the gauges alone are worth a fair bit. It helps that JUN have deep pockets too. :) For our needs, I believe one of each gauge is more than adequate.

But of course if you want 50x gauges, then the spank factor is always good I guess :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeetus
      R33 GTST Sh*tbox to Polished T*rd

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Gday Thought it was about time I started a build thread! As expected this project has snowballed into a huge financial liability, but unless you’re strong willed and responsible, it’s not a surprise. Background -  My first turbo car was an R32 GTS-4, got my full license and then totalled my Au Falcon a week later, so while trying to sell my RMZ450 dirtbike to buy another car a bloke offered to swap the R32 which at the time I felt like I was ripped off but looking back and seeing prices of those now ($40kish) it was a good deal, I didn’t know enough about these cars to appreciate what I had so sold it before the RB20 blew up. Between here and there, out of 12 cars I’ve owned the note worthy ones are a V8 Lexus SC400 (soarer), a couple of XR6 Turbos and my beloved S15 which I had for about 3 years, picked it up for $12500, repairable write off but she was fine, gun metal grey/pewter and bone stock/unmolested until I got my hands on it. Ended up spending about the value of the car and 280kw, 2 demerit points by the time I got defected and sold it for $14500 (also $40kish in today’s market, rip) Fast forward to the present day, I’m in a much better position financially and daily an MQ Triton (great cars, pipe down Ranger Bois), I cruised marketplace and car sales for a few months looking for another R32, the best deal I could find was an absolute rust bucket half finished project for $12000, until this R33 popped up in Port Macquarie for $18k - unregistered and barely running but decent shape, kept an eye on it for a few weeks and the price steadily dropped, $16k then $15k then $14k, that was the point where I was like shit someone’s gonna snatch this up! It was owned by a young bloke who had big plans but him and his missus just had a baby so smartest move financially for them but big gain for me. So 2 days later I’m towing a car trailer to pick this thing up. Roughly 2 weeks and $3500 later I’m cruising around Newcastle in my beat up R33 all smiles and dose noises! It only needed some basic shit to get it going, coil packs and air flow meter, electrical stuff and all fluids changed, 158k kms and running pretty good, nice smooth engine after oil and coolant flush - when I say coolant I mean it had been filled up with tap water, every gallery and heater element was filled with rust, 8-9 flushes later and still had brown liquid coming out but she’ll be right. The car was painted R34 Bayside Blue at some point but whether it was a cheap job or just not looked after is anyone’s guess, clear coat flaking like sausage roll.  Was rethinking my choices and contemplating life, had it up for sale for $22k - still cheaper than any registered R33 but got little interest, next minute I had an opportunity at work - 6 months overseas for good money, so that was a no brainer, fast forward again and here we are with a 50% finished project. Current Mods - 200ish KW according to butt dyno Was tuned with Apexi PowerFC EBC (old school Greddy Profec)  Stock turbo (more shaft play than a Tinder date gone right) 3inch turbo back Varex muffler  Aftermarket injectors of mystery size, Power FC showed 36% duty cycle at full boost so not behd good size Someone had good intentions but stuck with the stock R33 MAF so we had misfires at 6000rpm due to the MAF hitting 5.2V So far I’ve redone the entire interior with carpet form Car Mats Direct, new Seats and steering wheel from Autotechnica, also sound system by Autobarn (mainly Kicker) Also MCA pro comfort coil overs - Hands down best purchase yet, worlds of improvement over the tired 30yrold shocks Goals - 450kw/600hp on flex tune New paint job - Midnight Purple 2 Engine is at the shop getting rebuilt with forged rods a pistons, new valves and springs, ATI Harmonic balancer, Aeroflow 7.5L sump, rear head drain and oil restrictors as per oil control thread* and cam covers modded for larger breathers, other stuff I can’t recall of the top of my head Parts purchased and to be installed once the engine is done -  Engine loom from Wiring Specialties including these options: Haltech Nexus S3 R35 Coil pack conversion  PRP Dual Trigger kit Fan controller  Other Parts -  262 Kelford Cams Turbo - Hypergear ATR43SS3-ProS with T51R mod (whistly boi) 6 boost manifold (high mount) 50mm Turbosmart Pro gate (plumbed back for legal reasons) HKS Super Turbo Exhaust with High Flow Cat Custom 3.5inch dump and front pipe 1500cc Bosch injectors  Fuel Pump walbro 525 Haltech MAP and IAT sensors Haltech Flex Sensor Fenix Radiator with dual thermo fans LS1 Alternator Kit Oil Filter Relocation from EFI solutions and Cooling pro oil cooler Many other things sitting in my garage waiting for that engine to come back. Progress pics to follow -  
    • GTSBoy
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Losses have to be less with DC coupling. Provided the battery inverter has decent MPP tracking ability - which really shouldn't be a problem. It's not 2005 any more.
    • ossy
      Will R33 GTR rear backing plates fit GTST?

      By ossy · Posted

      Hi, Will the R33 GTR rear brake backing plates fit a GTST? I'm struggling to find GTST ones but can find new GTR ones.   Thanks.
    • Yeetus
      Has anyone put in brand new full carpet? (not floor mats)

      By Yeetus · Posted

      I also got the same floor mats for a bit of extra bazzaz haha
    • Yeetus
      Has anyone put in brand new full carpet? (not floor mats)

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Some more close up pics now that I’m back to working on the car, the loop pile is nice but again haven’t compared it to the other types in person, it’s hard to tell from the pics on the website. View of the hemming on the edges too, it comes in 2 pieces - front and back, honestly very happy with it for anyone on the fence.  Also attached my previous pics from further up as it didn’t let me post them directly before. (Nothing worse than photo bucket pics that aren’t hosted anymore years later)
×
×
  • Create New...