Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no it won't

yr bonnet need to mod as GTR grill design is different

and the guard is not wide enough

if u really like GTR front bar u can try east bear

http://www.east-bear.co.jp/aeroparts/m-pie...e/R34f-spo.html

R34nom-fs01.jpg

http://www.e-aero.jp/aeroparts/m-piece/R34.html

R34-2.jpg

no it won't

yr bonnet need to mod as GTR grill design is different

and the guard is not wide enough

if u really like GTR front bar u can try east bear

http://www.east-bear.co.jp/aeroparts/m-pie...e/R34f-spo.html

R34nom-fs01.jpg

http://www.e-aero.jp/aeroparts/m-piece/R34.html

R34-2.jpg

It will fit if you don't mind doing some work on the bonnet...there is a Japanese site showing step by step how to fit one.

The guards are wider, but the amount that the bar flexes in doesn't look bad, as it's only a minor geometry change.

I have a R34 GT-R front bumper and HKS Kansai C/F Hood on my R34 GT-t.

Assuming you have a GT-R hood, the R34 front bumper does fit with no mods as long as you get the upper grill support brackets that bolt to the headlights as well as the cross bar that the top of the bumper attaches to. The stock GT-t bumper re-enforce will work with some slight trimming I believe. I opted for a GT-R bumper re-enforce (light weight allumi) so it fit like a champ.

As far as the attaching the bumper to the fenders, only one bolt hole will line up so you can either toss the plastic re-enforcement piece that the front bolt goes through and use rear bolt to hold the bumper on each side or re-drill the forward hole in the bumper to the correct position. I used the rear bolt only as I was too lazy that day to re-drill the bumper. You will end up with the tips of the bumper about 4mm past the end of the fender wheel arch, but it is not too bad. There will also be a small gap between the headlights and the bumper at the corners, but in all it looks tits hot!

As for the hood you need to buy GT-R hinges and a GT-R hood latch support to make it work. If you get an HKS Kansai hood you can "mod" your GT-t hinges to make them work but you need a butt load of washers to bring the hood up to the correct height in the back. You will need to drill a new hole in the GT-R hood latch support to bolt it to your lower radiator support frame on the car but it is a piece of cake.

I will try to get some photos of my setup for you guys if you want.

If you have any questions feel free to PM me I will be happy to help you out.

It will fit if you don't mind doing some work on the bonnet...there is a Japanese site showing step by step how to fit one.

The guards are wider, but the amount that the bar flexes in doesn't look bad, as it's only a minor geometry change.

where might this Japanese site be?? :(

where might this Japanese site be?? :D

http://homepage2.nifty.com/ma2kun/ER34r.htm

Here is the site for modding the GT-t hood and installing the GT-R bumper. If you save the photos to your HD and open them up they are a bit bigger than what is on the website.

This is the site I used for reference when I put my bumper on.

I will be taking some photos tomorrow and will post them for you guys.

In the mean time here is a photo of a GT-t with a GT-R rear bumper. (Not my ride though I got this pic off the internet somewhere if it’s a forum members ride I am sorry for scamming your pic)

Looks great! ;)

Hey, another Japan member - have you visited the Japan section? :)

Nice to see someone else with a non-GTR R34 in bayside blue - not many of us about!

Q: How'd you manage to get a private plate? I mean, I someone doubt it was a coincidence you got "34" :) :)

Dave (In Yamanashi)

Looks great! ;)

Hey, another Japan member - have you visited the Japan section? :)

Nice to see someone else with a non-GTR R34 in bayside blue - not many of us about!

Q: How'd you manage to get a private plate? I mean, I someone doubt it was a coincidence you got "34" :) :)

Dave (In Yamanashi)

Hey thanks man!

The private number was easy. When I bought the car from NISSAN I asked for the number ”. . 34”. It cost like 4000 yen extra, but anyone can do it when you register a car.

I have had the car for a year now and I did the bumper and hood about 3 months ago but these are the first new photos since the front-end change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...