Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do they acept chques?

If they are like 99 percent of businesses, they won't release the goods (ie. your car) until the cheque is banked and cleared. Assuming it gets banked on the day you pay it can still take 2-3 days to clear.

IMHO you are better off doing a direct deposit over the counter.

LW.

steve ask ucb if you can use direct deposit, straight to their account over the internet. I did it with my broker (Intergroup) on my last car. Made things that much easier. If i remember right the steam cleaning place is part of the docks, or at least not far away. Mine didnt need a clean even though it was dusty as, and some Japanese cricket creature was living between the coil packs...

steve

Dont stress about the bill of landing

You should receive it in the mail by the end of this week

As for payment you can use direct deposit,cash or bank cheque.

I had the car delivered before I paid and then went to UCB and paid with a bank cheque.

Internet banking would of been easier however the limit for me was 2k

He'll send you an itemised invoice with all the charges by mail.

Quick tip,dont bother with picking the car up yourself,I had organised a tow but it wasnt

worth it when delivery was only $60 on a flat bed truck to my door

Cant tell you much about cleaning as I didnt need it done

As long as your interior is clean you wont have a drama.

The outside of mine was filthy when it arrived.

if you dont wanna fork out for towing just ring up the DPI here in Perth and get a temporary movement permit. Tell them your'e going from Freo to wherever else you wanna go (mates houses to show it off? :D ) then to your house.

It costs $14.95, pay by credit card, and it lets you drive it as soon as its ready!

If its anything like in Sydney, the car will have next to no petrol so take a jerry can of BP Ultimate with you so you at least have enough to get to the nearest petrol station.

Personally I don't think its a very good idea to drive the car, particularly if its been sitting in storage and/or waiting for a while to be shipped. Oils and lubricants (or rather, the special active ingredients in them) tend to break down over a couple of months. Plus you never know what the condition of the car will actually be like till you pick it up :)

LW.

ill check the oil and coolant etc before even starting the car. and even top it up  etc

steve

I am not talking about the oil and coolant levels, I am talking about the quality of the oil in the car. For starters it seems its a common thing in Japan to not bother servicing it properly if your about to sell it, so who knows how long its been since the last oil change (in terms of kilometres and time). Then there is the fact that its probably been sitting still for god knows how long waiting to be shipped: during that time the oil additives are likely to have broken down at least partially. Moreover, you have no idea what was put in last time and since its a reasonably expensive proposition if something goes bang, a tow job is not a bad idea IMHO.

LW.

Seems your question has been answered but here it is from my experience when I did it.

Stuck car on Ship in the UK.

Paperwork posted to me in Aus.

Shipping company made contact with me confirming the arrival date as it was only an ETA on the paperwork posted over.

My broker who I knew personally kept me up to date so here is happened with him:

The broker had to book a time to collect the container (which wasnt opened). There is only about a 48hour window to collect it in otherwise it goes off to storage and incurrs hefty fees.

The take it to AQIS who do not know you from Adam so have to go through your broker as well.

AQIS were not allowed to open it until I was there (I wanted to check everything was intact and nothing missing incase of an insurance claim)

AQIS unpack it and inspect everything (in my case the car was packed full of personal belongings so they went through everything)

AQIS normally take a couple of days to do this, they then inform the broker.

I paid my fee to the broker including all taxes as they have already paid on my behalf to AQIS.

Once all is cleared financially, I arranged a flat bed to pick the car up and take it to compliance.

Job done.

Well just about! About 7 weeks later I recieved another invoice for $80 from my broker who had in turn been invoiced by AQIS for "Addtional Quarantine Fees". This was crap and I argued it with them as for all they knew I could have moved house, left the country.

HTH

Iwells - I didnt know that from the orginal post nor that the percentage was that high. Cheers for pointing it out. I shall leave my post incase it helps someone but if anyone wants it removed, PM me.

in answer to the thread question.

when my car arrived i was sent out an invioce with everythign i have to pay, including the towing to my door...

i have to wait about 10 days, the car will then be towed to my house.. Then have to tow the car to be complied, then rego, then fun

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...