Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh i just did this over the weekend, turned out ok, but i am not sure what the factory specification is for it. Here are my results:

#1 - 140 psi

#2 - 150 psi

#3 - 140 psi

#4 - 130 psi

#5 - 140 psi

#6 - 140 psi

this is only rough figure i am guessing as it was only a cheap Hella Compression tester that i borrowed off a mate and he said he dunno how accuarate it is, main this is that there was no major drop across the board.

  • 5 weeks later...

I picked one up at super dodgy auto on the weekend. About $50 but there were cheaper ones. The one I got had a screw in fitting to the spark plug hole, the cheaper ones have rubber thingies you just push in and try to hold tight.

Of course good ones are much more expensive, $100+

Sorry I don't know the target compression for an rb25

#1 - 140 psi

#2 - 150 psi

#3 - 140 psi

#4 - 130 psi

#5 - 140 psi

#6 - 140 psi

Cheap gauges aren't accurate as Duncan said so these figures are a guide at best. The biggest worry is the difference between cylinders 2 and 4. Nissan recommends a maximum diff between cylinders of 14psi pretty much regardless of engine type, so these are well outside that. I'd recommend getting an accurate compression test done or, preferably, have a leak down test performed which is a far better indicator of engine condition.

Were these tests done with engine at operating temp, throttles open, etc ??

Cheap gauges aren't accurate as Duncan said so these figures are a guide at best. The biggest worry is the difference between cylinders 2 and 4. Nissan recommends a maximum diff between cylinders of 14psi pretty much regardless of engine type, so these are well outside that. I'd recommend getting an accurate compression test done or, preferably, have a leak down test performed which is a far better indicator of engine condition.

Were these tests done with engine at operating temp, throttles open, etc ??

From memory you are allowed around 10% difference between cylinders, meaning between 1 & 2 , 2 & 3 , 3 & 4 , 4 & 5 and 5 & 6 not between 1 & 3 or 2 & 6 for example.

From memory you are allowed around 10% difference between cylinders, meaning between 1 & 2 , 2 & 3 , 3 & 4 , 4 & 5 and 5 & 6 not between 1 & 3 or 2 & 6 for example.

14psi max variation between cylinders is pretty much a universal spec for Nissan engines, and it's between any 2 cylinders not just pairs.

yeh i did it with WOT, but not at operating temp (for obvious reasons!) i assumed the differences could have been a factor of this cos of lack of oil in bores.

the unit i used was about ~$100 and screwed into the plug hole

mine were about 140 too... wel, 3 of em.

Two were 110... and lucky last was 70 :D

needless to say i had 3 stuffed ringlands/pistons. With the 3rd being really farked.

So 130-150 sounds ok to me. Leak down testing would show more though.

as blur said make sure the car is hot when u do it, and also make sure u have a good battery connected, (battery will affect cranking speed and compression readings)

outright readings are not important its more the variation, and if those readings were accurate your engine i stuffed, but its probably just the way u did the test. do it again properly and you should get some proper readings.

as a guide the last compression test i did on a rb25 gave figures between 170-173psi (less than 2% difference) although as i said before dont take the outright figures too seriously.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...