Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Oh i just did this over the weekend, turned out ok, but i am not sure what the factory specification is for it. Here are my results:

#1 - 140 psi

#2 - 150 psi

#3 - 140 psi

#4 - 130 psi

#5 - 140 psi

#6 - 140 psi

this is only rough figure i am guessing as it was only a cheap Hella Compression tester that i borrowed off a mate and he said he dunno how accuarate it is, main this is that there was no major drop across the board.

  • 5 weeks later...

I picked one up at super dodgy auto on the weekend. About $50 but there were cheaper ones. The one I got had a screw in fitting to the spark plug hole, the cheaper ones have rubber thingies you just push in and try to hold tight.

Of course good ones are much more expensive, $100+

Sorry I don't know the target compression for an rb25

#1 - 140 psi

#2 - 150 psi

#3 - 140 psi

#4 - 130 psi

#5 - 140 psi

#6 - 140 psi

Cheap gauges aren't accurate as Duncan said so these figures are a guide at best. The biggest worry is the difference between cylinders 2 and 4. Nissan recommends a maximum diff between cylinders of 14psi pretty much regardless of engine type, so these are well outside that. I'd recommend getting an accurate compression test done or, preferably, have a leak down test performed which is a far better indicator of engine condition.

Were these tests done with engine at operating temp, throttles open, etc ??

Cheap gauges aren't accurate as Duncan said so these figures are a guide at best. The biggest worry is the difference between cylinders 2 and 4. Nissan recommends a maximum diff between cylinders of 14psi pretty much regardless of engine type, so these are well outside that. I'd recommend getting an accurate compression test done or, preferably, have a leak down test performed which is a far better indicator of engine condition.

Were these tests done with engine at operating temp, throttles open, etc ??

From memory you are allowed around 10% difference between cylinders, meaning between 1 & 2 , 2 & 3 , 3 & 4 , 4 & 5 and 5 & 6 not between 1 & 3 or 2 & 6 for example.

From memory you are allowed around 10% difference between cylinders, meaning between 1 & 2 , 2 & 3 , 3 & 4 , 4 & 5 and 5 & 6 not between 1 & 3 or 2 & 6 for example.

14psi max variation between cylinders is pretty much a universal spec for Nissan engines, and it's between any 2 cylinders not just pairs.

yeh i did it with WOT, but not at operating temp (for obvious reasons!) i assumed the differences could have been a factor of this cos of lack of oil in bores.

the unit i used was about ~$100 and screwed into the plug hole

mine were about 140 too... wel, 3 of em.

Two were 110... and lucky last was 70 :D

needless to say i had 3 stuffed ringlands/pistons. With the 3rd being really farked.

So 130-150 sounds ok to me. Leak down testing would show more though.

as blur said make sure the car is hot when u do it, and also make sure u have a good battery connected, (battery will affect cranking speed and compression readings)

outright readings are not important its more the variation, and if those readings were accurate your engine i stuffed, but its probably just the way u did the test. do it again properly and you should get some proper readings.

as a guide the last compression test i did on a rb25 gave figures between 170-173psi (less than 2% difference) although as i said before dont take the outright figures too seriously.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...