Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

11.7 and 116 mph = ~250 rwkw (that's on a roller dyno)

If it is a hub dyno, add 15 rwkw (no wheels or rollers).

265 rhkw (rear hub kilowatts)

Note no mention of camshafts:cheers:

So what sort of camshaft/timing do you think this engine setup has. I would be surprised if this is radical, may be just an improved standard setup

Turbine

sk, the hr31 irs is very difficult to control. No matter how much wheel alligning you do the design of the irs still see's the rear tyres half of the ground. Every import 31 has this problem.

Took it for a proper drive for the first time since I got the car back from the tune, and its developed a nasty missfire as soon as it hits boost. Im thinking ignition (again) since the back of the car was covered in fuel when I got back... time to bring the plug gap down yet again.

sk, the hr31 irs is very difficult to control.  No matter how much wheel alligning you do the design of the irs still see's the rear tyres half of the ground.  Every import 31 has this problem..

This one works great;

Gibson_R31_Now_Small.jpg

They are no more difficult than any IRS with struts. The trick is to find out exactly how much it is going to squat, I use a video camera and cable ties on the shock shafts for that. Once you know, then you can simulate it on the wheel aligner by jacking it up and down with the rear springs out. You remove as much dynamic camber change as you can with the offsett bushes. Then you set the static camber so that the tyre contact patch is optimised at full squat. It's pretty simple really.:(

we aint all on race team budgets remember :P

You're kidding, right? Our budget wouldn't buy the paint job on an Autosalon car. It's not about how much you spend, but what you spend it on. An example;

Hey mate, for $700 I can get you lots more power, enough to improve your 1/4 times by 0.5 sec. How fast would you jump? :wassup:

Compared to;

Hey mate, for $700 I can do a wheel alignment that will improve your 1/4 times by 0.5 sec. Now how fast would you jump? :kick:

We have to make that sort of decision all the time, what do we spend the limited money on to get the best result. Engine power bragging rights are pretty worthless, it's all about how long it takes to get from the start of the race to the end of the race.

:cheers:

Hi all , have to agree some mods forced by limited budgets can be very effective . Some time back I had DR30 IRS grafted into a Bluebird and remember thinking the crossmember bushes were too soft . The budget fix was to drop the rear end out and fill the gaps in the rubber bushes with of all things stickerflex . This stuff has very similar consistency to the rubber and is the cheap way to get a "works" style bush that still has some compliance . I have seen a few HR31 IRS rear ends and their X member bushes are REALLY soft . This will not help with tramp or alignments .

I got the car back today and it did 271rwhp@16psi .It was'nt tuned in kill mode but it's safe.I used to get like 90 knock all the time with the old tune but now the most is 35 and thats raping it.300 would be good to have so I'll see what happens.

Nice, it wil make 300 easily with 19-20psi:). How does it feel on the road?

Can you post up a link to your dyno sheet (and mine.. I lost the link), be interesting to see how much better your power curve looks.

HKS GT2535 turbo

Stainless exhaust manifold

R32 GTR intercooler

Z32 afm

Apexi pod

R33 GTR injectors

Greddy profec b boost controller

3inch dump pipe,3inch mild steel mandral bent exhaust

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Nismo adjustable fuel regulator

Apexi PFC

16psi

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was a great, but typical track day, and some VB was ingested at the night time debrief 🤪
    • And so, to round this out, I couldn't be happier to confirm @MBS206 has decided to buy the car. He drove down from sunny QLD with a trailer last week and it is off to its new home today. I'll let Matt confirm on next steps but I understand broadly that the plan is to leave it pretty much as is, and just get some quality wheel time with a nicely balanced car that is pretty much track ready. There are a few a jobs still to be done first but nothing too major and I think its a very smart buy Dinner last night at the Paragon with a round of VBs (mostly) for Neil
    • Well, 50 pages and the end of a chapter for this car. We took it out for a shakedown at Wakie yesterday, and everything went well. There were a couple of niggles: - Oil cooler fitting leak - tightened, cleaned, stopped leaking - Radiator cap overflow fitting was leaking....Mark called it, the overflow fitting was threaded in and not tight....tightened, tested and held pressure - Small oil leak at the rear of the block, probably the turbo oil feed - too hot to get at it comfortably but probably just needs to be nipped up - leak at the driver's side rear brake line where it meets the hardline. Fitting wasn't loose, so Matt backed it off and back on, no further leaks - there's also a leak somewhere on the top of the fuel tank, maybe that cross over fuel line - that was has been left to fix when its on a hoist Otherwise than those niggles the car went great, turned great and stopped great so it was a very successful day out. I'm always really nervous when a car first hits the track after a long break, especially with a brand new engine as well but it was great. VID-20251011-WA0007.mp4  Big thanks to @The Bogan who dropped by and helped out, @MBS206 and my nephew Lachlan the apprentice.  Neil's wife Mel also surprised the hell out of all of us by dropping by; she's up in Tamworth these days but was travelling to Melbourne so had plausible deniability for turning up at the garage, it was great to see her but also obviously a bit sad all round.
    • Skyline R33 Series 2 sedan tail lights in excellent condition. These are becoming harder to find, especially in this state.    BOTH SETS ARE IN FANTASTIC CONDITION (REFER TO PHOTOS)    ✅ No broken covers or cracks ✅ Lenses are in flawless condition ✅ All rear mounting lugs intact ✅ Comes complete as pictured ✅ Perfect for restoration, replacement, or upgrade   These lights are ready to go, no surprises just quality OEM parts.   These are definitely one of the better sets we have seen in a while. With minimal wear and tear they will come as you see. Bear in mind they are not brand new they are almost 30 years old now. To find them in this condition isn’t easy they can only be obtained on the second hand market.   Australia Wide Postage Available At Buyers Expense. Silver Set:$850 Grey Set:$850 PM Me for purchase or any other questions  IMG_2166.dng IMG_2165.dng IMG_2172.dng IMG_2173.dng IMG_2174.dng IMG_2179.dng IMG_2180.dng IMG_2260.dng IMG_2258.dng IMG_2259.dng IMG_2261.dng IMG_2266.dng IMG_2273.dng IMG_2274.dng IMG_2276.dng
    • Unsolicited advice? Keep the engine as close to stock as you can. Nothing wrong with adding some boost and making a little more power, but given where you are, you really don't want to try to make it into a monster. I can't imagine the roads are up to it, and the lack of locla support when it grenades will be a ball ache. FWIW, If there is a dyno around that you can access, then brand new injectors are a good idea, which will lead you to (at least) putting a Nistune in it, which will allow you to put an R35 AFM on it, all of which will make it possible to make it much much nicer to drive and live with.
×
×
  • Create New...