Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thanks for the info mate...how much dosh would they set me back?

where do i get them from?

as i said in the above post, nengun or any site sponsor or even site sponsors at ns.com as they have some really good deals sometimes.

Mine cost me $1050 3 years ago delivered and that was when the exchange rate sucked. now a set of 6 should cost no more than $900 delivered.

no, because the stock injectors are high impedence. so its a straight fit.

if i get high impedance injectors...do i need to use a resistor pack? (i think thats what its called?)

thanks interloper...i went to that nengun performance webpage and found some sard 550cc injectors to my door for $690, can anyone tell me though...what twin hole spray injectors are?

thanks

Edited by R32_GTS-4

i also have another question, regaurding power fc, does it remove the speed limiter, boost limiter and rev limiter? would i be better off getting a haltek e11 or a power fc?

Edited by R32_GTS-4
i also have another question, regaurding power fc, does it remove the speed limiter, boost limiter and rev limiter? would i be better off getting a haltek e11 or a power fc?

go the PFC, it does all those functions and more!

I would have bought one but i decided to get the stock computer remapped instead :(

I've found the trick with the pfc is to ensure you set idle with the aac valve solanoid disconnected and set the idle as close to to the pfc set idle rpm. The trick is to get it spot on.

Then... init the pfc (also a must as it doesn't seem to relearn as well afterwards) and let it do the 30minute idle thing with a/c off then a/c on.

The only time I have a slight elevated idle is occasionally with the a/c on, even then it settles to the usual a/c idle rpm within a few secs.

But definitely no hunting.. when I had the motor out I cleaned every single little thing.. throttle body, plenum, aac + the cold start idle control i think thats the ICV or something can't remember exactly.

I must admit I can't remember any idle hunting while the motor was being run in on the stock ecu. Maybe it wasn't the pfc.. maybe the cleaning?!?

sky30 with his 300rwkw monster has gone through quite a few rb20det box's. BUT it is a 3ltr and its torque that kills gearbox's not power.

Third gear is appears to be the one to go..

No hard changes, mid way accelerating through third it goes BANG!

Oops. Sorry to hear. Out of interest what clutch are you running, kms on the box and what fluid were you running?

Also how hard are you on the box, do you clutch the thing mid corner, burnouts, flat changes etc etc???

9 puck brass button clutch... box is unknown kms cause of man conversion and i was running redline oil

im very hard on the box, i clutch mid corners, i drop 2nd a lot in the dry from standstill... decently fast changes not quiet flat changes but close

box held up for a full year of abuse with around 300rwhp but finally gave up on me... im actually quiet impressed that it lasted this long. just popped now cause boost has been raised and intake pipe which was collapsing has been fixed. like the day before it happened so im hoping this isnt too regualr occurance

if you speak to R32-Gts (simon) on these forums, he has broken so many rb20 boxes its a joke

thinking of getting a spare box cryogenically treated and shot peened, i cant be bothered forking out on a RB25 item

yeh dude i know the feeling well!!!! i went through 4 of them! 2 with the 20 and 2 with the 30 then i finally got sick of forking out the cash 4 the shit boxes and bought a 25det one and i gotta sa man i should have done it a long time ago coz it is sooooooooooooo worth it!!!!!

This is my car

29.jpg

and as i'm sure you can guess it's got an rb20det in it

just got it back from the tunners the other day and it's got 241.3 rwkw with no real power loss right up to 7500rpm.

It made 253.8 rwkw but was runnin a little lean 12.5:1 so we tuned it back to a safe point .

i know it's not really 260rwkw but hey it's got 322rwhp so i thought i'd post it up.

By the way roy can you give me the formula to convert speed to rpm

Cheers

anthony

Edited by black sky

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...