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11.7 and 116 mph = ~250 rwkw (that's on a roller dyno)

If it is a hub dyno, add 15 rwkw (no wheels or rollers).

265 rhkw (rear hub kilowatts)

Note no mention of camshafts:cheers:

So what sort of camshaft/timing do you think this engine setup has. I would be surprised if this is radical, may be just an improved standard setup

Turbine

sk, the hr31 irs is very difficult to control. No matter how much wheel alligning you do the design of the irs still see's the rear tyres half of the ground. Every import 31 has this problem.

Took it for a proper drive for the first time since I got the car back from the tune, and its developed a nasty missfire as soon as it hits boost. Im thinking ignition (again) since the back of the car was covered in fuel when I got back... time to bring the plug gap down yet again.

sk, the hr31 irs is very difficult to control.  No matter how much wheel alligning you do the design of the irs still see's the rear tyres half of the ground.  Every import 31 has this problem..

This one works great;

Gibson_R31_Now_Small.jpg

They are no more difficult than any IRS with struts. The trick is to find out exactly how much it is going to squat, I use a video camera and cable ties on the shock shafts for that. Once you know, then you can simulate it on the wheel aligner by jacking it up and down with the rear springs out. You remove as much dynamic camber change as you can with the offsett bushes. Then you set the static camber so that the tyre contact patch is optimised at full squat. It's pretty simple really.:(

we aint all on race team budgets remember :P

You're kidding, right? Our budget wouldn't buy the paint job on an Autosalon car. It's not about how much you spend, but what you spend it on. An example;

Hey mate, for $700 I can get you lots more power, enough to improve your 1/4 times by 0.5 sec. How fast would you jump? :wassup:

Compared to;

Hey mate, for $700 I can do a wheel alignment that will improve your 1/4 times by 0.5 sec. Now how fast would you jump? :kick:

We have to make that sort of decision all the time, what do we spend the limited money on to get the best result. Engine power bragging rights are pretty worthless, it's all about how long it takes to get from the start of the race to the end of the race.

:cheers:

Hi all , have to agree some mods forced by limited budgets can be very effective . Some time back I had DR30 IRS grafted into a Bluebird and remember thinking the crossmember bushes were too soft . The budget fix was to drop the rear end out and fill the gaps in the rubber bushes with of all things stickerflex . This stuff has very similar consistency to the rubber and is the cheap way to get a "works" style bush that still has some compliance . I have seen a few HR31 IRS rear ends and their X member bushes are REALLY soft . This will not help with tramp or alignments .

I got the car back today and it did 271rwhp@16psi .It was'nt tuned in kill mode but it's safe.I used to get like 90 knock all the time with the old tune but now the most is 35 and thats raping it.300 would be good to have so I'll see what happens.

Nice, it wil make 300 easily with 19-20psi:). How does it feel on the road?

Can you post up a link to your dyno sheet (and mine.. I lost the link), be interesting to see how much better your power curve looks.

HKS GT2535 turbo

Stainless exhaust manifold

R32 GTR intercooler

Z32 afm

Apexi pod

R33 GTR injectors

Greddy profec b boost controller

3inch dump pipe,3inch mild steel mandral bent exhaust

Bosch 040 fuel pump

Nismo adjustable fuel regulator

Apexi PFC

16psi

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