Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yes, and no I won't bring you back any parts/kobe beef/school girls! haha just kidding mate.

Yeah, I'll be heading back soon. it's worth it for me just for the money saved on freight.

BTW your dyno graph really impresses me. I'd love to come for a ride to see what your car feels like. ie. how responsive, what the top end is like etc. because I'm pretty much doing the same things.

I currently have:

front pipes + cat back system

Apexi PFC

profec b-spec 2 (running about 12psi)

Apexi power intake kit

trust cam gears (not yet tuned)

HKS wastegate actuators

want to add to this:

trust dump+front kit

cams (not sure yet which ones) + valve springs

possibly GT-SS turbo kit

Richard, that sounds like a good list - I think my turbos run out at the top end, so something like a GT-SS will keep the boost on early yet flow alot more for better top end :)

If you're ever in Melb, I'm happy to take you for a spin :)

I do pop down to melbs from time to time. mainly when the GP is on :)

yeah, I think the GT-SS would be worthwhile. not very expensive either. still tossing up whether or not I should go one further to the 2530s.

GTR032 can you please post your graph?

Thanks :D

I dont have my latest graph unfortunately but here's the next best thing. 244rwkw, Blue line is 14psi, cam gears, power fc, filters,full exhaust and rebuilt turbo's. Red line is 12psi, pods and full exhaust - 188rwkw.

Clarification: So 1bar worth of boost on the stock turbos seem to be okay? Is failure past this because of the actual boost or the fact that the turbine shaft speed is too fast causing delamination?

The reason I ask is because I am about to undertake up grades in the way of a competition dump pipes and y piece as well as a retune on the dyno. I already have a larger free-flowing FMIC and pods. What worries me is that with all these mods I will have less restriction in the system and therefore less boost. If I then up the boost to 1bar I would imagine the shaft speed will be greater than a near standard system with 1bar.

Am I on the right track? If so, should I tune for 0.9bar or even less?

So is it the boost or the shaft speed?

Still had no concrete reply. Given that I have less restrictions in the system should I be aiming at only 0.9bar boost or less? So is it the shaft speed that causes the problems or purely the amount of boost?

West - can you post your dyno so I can compare the midrange to the Tomei cams?

I'm sure with cams you'll get more midrange than mine, i can post the dyno graph but it'll take a while, best to speak to BEN, my car was on the same dyno as your or maybe come to the meeting this month?

Where about in melb are you? Pm me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Messing around with. Twin kit for. Rb30/26  
    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
×
×
  • Create New...