Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a friend looking for a Skyline and he has come across a pearly white 4 door R33 manual with 73,000kms on it. Has an exhaust, dump pipe, volk rims and some I never heard of brand computer. Apparently the owners wife has just used it as a run about shopping car.

They are asking $25,000 for it. As I have not been looking for a 33 then I ask is that a fair price for one so I can let him no.....

Thanks!!!

Bayley

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58680-4-door-33-whats-it-worth/
Share on other sites

For a Manual u will have to expect to pay bout 20k

Its just the way they are. Depends on the condition they is a lot of crap out there. Auto u should get one for bout 16 and above.

If u import one yourself u may get it cheaper but i bout mine from a yard.

I bought an auto and i'm gettting it converted to manual.

Yeah I paid under 20k.

Bayley, Is the guy from around Welshpool? I've heard of a 4dr that this guy modified and says his wife drives it round. I think he was from Per4manz Turbocharges.

Soppagas, is it a costly process in changing to Manual? Cause I was thinking of doing the same.

Nah, thats Grant from Per4manz. Yeah I though $25k sounded a bit on the expensive side but I told him I would find out for him cuz I wasn't 100%. He is pretty keen on a nice Passage GT but he asked me about the 33 cuz he doesn't want to do the gear boz conversion etc. Thanks for your help guys!

I bought my 4 door from down under auto for 15k. he wanted 17 for it but it told him i was paying cash and after some sweet talking got it for the 15. its auto 70k on the clock and completely stock. have a look around for them as there are a few about. pretty much anyhting with a few mods is goin to cost you more but you might find a bargain in the quokka or auto trader. good luck with the search. the 4 doors are hottest of all line-o's :cheers:

Yeah I paid under 20k.  

Bayley, Is the guy from around Welshpool? I've heard of a 4dr that this guy modified and says his wife drives it round. I think he was from Per4manz Turbocharges.

Soppagas, is it a costly process in changing to Manual? Cause I was thinking of doing the same.

2-3k depending on where you go , what kind of clutch you put in

generally auto + conversion seem cheaper than a straight manual

my 95 auto 90000km cost 14k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...