Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

have noticed alot (if not all) of the japanese aftermarket coilovers have pillowball strut tops fitted, also seen them on castor rods for certain cars and was wondering what the advantages of going to pillowballs or rose joints instead of bushes are? is it simply to stiffen up the pivot points?

cheers

Karlos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59073-why-pillowball/
Share on other sites

stock suspension is mounted to the shock tower by a preset mounting specification

a pillowball top for your suspension top will allow your to change how the top of your suspension is positioned . will give you a good degree of adjustment , however i cant see any strenth upside though, as it mounts basically the same.

my 2 cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59073-why-pillowball/#findComment-1128839
Share on other sites

stock suspension is mounted to the shock tower by a preset mounting specification  

a pillowball top for your suspension top will allow your to change how the top of your suspension is positioned . will give you a good degree of adjustment , however i cant see any strenth upside though, as it mounts basically the same.

 

my 2 cents

adjustment will only be available if the top mount allows it, many do not and they simply solid mount the shaft to the top mount via a spherical or needle roller bearing. as far as I know the only time you can get adj into your top mount is with struts, you won't find this arrangement on a GTR for example.

the idea of pillow balls/rose joints is to reduce compliance and flexing making the suspension more rigid. i've heard mixed reports on how well they work with shocks on a daily driver road car, needle bearings seem to work better than the more traditional sphericals as the sphericals wear quite rapidly on many road cars. the reason for this is that the bearing experience a sideways force when the spring compresses and places load on the bearing. hence after a while the bearings start to knock like mad. greasable sphericals seem better than plain ones but the needle bearing seems better again.

hope that makes sense

regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59073-why-pillowball/#findComment-1129258
Share on other sites

R32/33/34 Skylines are double wishbone so adjustable shock tops are useless.

Spherical bearings are used on race cars to remove the small movement that the rubber top mounts allow. This means the shocks see all of the minute movements up and down and thus can be adjusted to maximise the tyre contact and improve the lap times. Obviously you need at least quad adjustable shocks (bump and rebound + high and low frequency) to take advantage of this.

Spherical bearings wear very quickly, need greasing often and knock like crazy when they do wear. They also add a lot to the NVH as there is no rubber to soak it up. Not a good idea for a road car.:(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59073-why-pillowball/#findComment-1130213
Share on other sites

cheers for the info guys! answered all my questions and then some :burnout:

reason i asked is im grabbing some bilstien shocks for my car and was thinking of getting some cusco camber tops. sounds like for alittle bit more camber i'm sacrificing alot of ride quality and reliability...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59073-why-pillowball/#findComment-1130363
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...