Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will i finally got off my ass and got my shit together for the ps2 modchip, so i through i give an update for another people wanting to do the same.

Basicly, i choose the option of getting a HDD (hard-drive) in my ps2 and not spending the money on a modchip itself.

So here what you need

1.HDD (there is a online which tells you the ones which will fit) I got a 120gig one

2. Buy Network adap. (so u can plug the hdd into the ps2)

3. Buy HD-Loader

Now you just plug the hdd into the network adap, then plug that into the ps2 boot up the hd-loader cd. and there u go, u can go out and rent games and just copy them straight to the hdd (got a 2gig game it took less than 15mins) or else u can hook the Hdd upto the pc and load the games on that way.

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59295-ps2-modchip-part-2/
Share on other sites

more detail post:

MAIN POINT: YOU DONT NEED ANY FORM OF MODCHIPS!!!

Cost:

1. Hdd (must be a hdd of this list http://ps2drives.x-pec.com/ ) price range from $80 - $200

2.Ps2 Network adaptor Price $60

3. HD-Loader (doesnt matter what copy can be hdloader1/2 or advance) cost $80 (contact killer-t to buy local or else find on websites)

INSTALLION:

1. Connect HDD to network adaptor

2. Plug network adaptor into ps2

3. turn ps2 on and load HD-LOADER cd

4. 1st time running the HD-Loader it will ask you to format the hdd so that it will be in the ps2 setup

5.You now can install games buy clicking install (it is easy as putting in the game and copying it)

Option Method: You can connect the HHD to your pc (You MUST do step 4 1st) Then you must dl (or contact me for the programs) the programs that copy the games to your hdd.

Program to copy games from pc to hdd: hdl_dumb, PS2 HD Handiness

Now this program allow you to us files such as bin/cue/iso etc, so if you have dl the game you dont have to burn it to a cd to copy it to the hdd.

For games which work with the Hd-loader and ps2 hdd: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/casey.miller/...mpatibility.htm

note: mode means when you select the game in Hdloader you press select and you can pick which mode to run the game in (3types) for example WRC4 PAL, needs mode 3 select to work

+'s:

No MODCHIP

No cost for cd, dvdrs

Quicker loading time (depends on rpm speed of your HDD, loading time is next to nothing)

Programs such a divx player, media player, EMU can be install on the ps2 without an modchip

cost

-'s

Cost (depend on the cost of the HDD, it can be equal to the cost of a modchip installed)

well thats about it i think, if anyone has anymore question just pm me and i will be more than happy to help you

Thanks Michael

someone said you where using ur ps2 chip to run your car, hence no more pinging

can you confirm or deny this?

ping ping ping

i'm using an old 486 comptuer Chip to run my car you should try it TJ..........

adrian :)

Please stick to the thread...

 

and answer this

 

"sweet dude, gonna have to do this too. where did u actually buy the HDD from, online or a store?"

hey joe,

i found it hard to find a hdd and not pay an arm and a leg. I went to morely and try all shops.

In the end i would try Dicksmith or some other pc type shop, or else you could try online i cant remember any websites of the top of my head.

and yeah the new ps2 (small ones), i dont think you can do this as there is no spot for the hdd

mikey

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...