Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just bought a Hybrid style 600x300x76mm bar and plate intercooler for my R32 GTSt.

I've been told that bar and plate I/Cs have denser fins than the tube and fin type and that this makes it harder for air to pass through the cooler to the radiator behind.

Reduced airflow as well as the extra heat from the I/C.

How much of an issue is this likely to be regarding overheating?

What measures have people used to minimise the likelihood of overheating?

Eg, positioning, additional ducting, sealing, vents etc.

BTW How much am I going to have to chop up my stock sedan front bar to fit the cooler and piping?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60035-can-fmic-cause-overheating/
Share on other sites

Doesn't make a difference really air is lazy and will go around anything, Their's other object is the road after the intercooler eg: the cooling system for the airconditioner were the thermo fan bolts onto.

I've seen + 1 - 2ºc max on a skyline were the airconditioning system has been removed and this car is fitted with a bar and plate cooler (79ºc operating temp) as were the other skyline with tube & fin cooler and airconditioning system in place it sits on (81ºc operating temp) - other factor's that can make a difference is that this car has a alliminium raditator so it could just be the raditator it self keeping the heat in.

Inless you'r water temp temps start going up past 85+ then don't worrie too much.

As for front bar you'll have to figure that out for you'r self, but usally a fair bit with that size cooler.

:cheers:

Jun

Depends on the intercooler setup.

The intercooler should not cover the whole radiator + if you are still running the standard engine fan and shroud it should still run fine. On super hot days mine does not go over 90.

Get a water sprayer setup from MRT in sydney - I run a custom setup which its just for piece of mind more then anything.

Good luck

Cameron: my 90 reading was sitting out the front waiting for the girls to get there ass into gear and get into the car (with air con running on a 40 deg day)

Was just idleing itself getting hotter and hotter and hotter....

Mine can sit on 86 after a few good boosts on a hot day - i am running a AVO Stage 2 intercooler with 3" staino piping - there is still room for the radiator to get direct air (through the grill for starters)

My cooler is a Bar N Plate setup - Tube and fin is better for street applications. Are they more expensive ?

Also You might like to try an oil cooler (if you don't already have one) as the oil that circulates thru the engine can also add to a latent heat build up in your engine block. The water then has to try and cool that as well. In JGTC now they are using angled radiator and intercooler to allow for more direct cooling of each surface. If you do get an oil cooler, do not mount it in front of the intercooler/ac condensor/radiator setup as you are just compounding the problem of the radiator (being last in line) having a much higher set of temps to cool.

Cheers

or you could get a larger radiator cooling fan.

on my old S13 the FMIC completely obstructed the radiator, we used replaced the stock fan with a couple of Zirgen pusher fans, over heating problem disappeared, from memory I think it ended up costing about $300.00 or so.

Cameron: my 90 reading was sitting out the front waiting for the girls to get there ass into gear and get into the car (with air con running on a 40 deg day)

Was just idleing itself getting hotter and hotter and hotter....

It won't make a difference as when idling in peak hour traffic there is no air passing through the radiator/fmic anyway. It has to be sucked.

I used to have the temp slowly creep up with a dodgy clutch fan.

I had it removed and 2 x 12" davis thermo's fitted, it helped but still the temp would creep up with the a/c on in peak hour traffic where the AMB button on the temp sensor would read a whopping 59degree's!!

The problem was I didn't have them mounted on a shroud but directly to the radiator. The surface area was not enough.

Removed the fans and replaced it with a stock shroud & new clutch fan and overheating issues dissapeared no matter how hot and how long I sit stationary.

Now when I first start the car in the morning I can hear the fan whooshing rather loud for the first 10secs then it stops.

On hot days in peak hour traffic I can most definately hear the fan roaring away if I raise the rev's slightly over 1000rpm.

But saying that my bar and plate FMIC sits roughly 20-30cm's away from the radiator so its not directly in front restricting air flow.

The fan can then suck air from all the little spots around the fmic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...