Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are so many comment against turboing an NA engine. For one is that the internal is not as strong as the factory turbo setup engine. But how weak is the internal, in term of attaching a turbo to it?

I've seen a fair few automotive magazine from the States, with Greddy & HKS selling a bolt on Turbo Kit for the 350Z, and Greddy bolt on Turbo kit for those Hondas.

Wouldn't it be a fair argument to say that those 350Z and those hondas internal weren't meant for turbo charging, and therefore would not be as strong as.... say an RB25DET or other factory turbo setup engines?

Can some one shed a light on to this for me, so that I may understand more about what works and what dont?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60119-greddy-turbo-kit/
Share on other sites

Halfcut would probably be the best option unless you can get the turbo and other bolt-on bits relatively cheap.

bits would included

Turbo

Exhaust manifold

Dump-pipe & Front pipe

Injectors (stock GTS-t ones or better)

Intercooler and piping (stock or better)

ECU (R33 gtst one may work fine)

Fuel Pump

I think that's the minimum you need to get it going :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60119-greddy-turbo-kit/#findComment-1153100
Share on other sites

I really should take some pics of under the engine bay, basically the oil feed comes from where the filter goes, the return is via the block near the sump.

The water lines are fed via the heater hose system for the climate control.

I'll g some photo's up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60119-greddy-turbo-kit/#findComment-1154000
Share on other sites

Looking at the wiring for the R33...the only thing I can think you may need to rewire is if you put the factory boost solenoid in. But if you don't bother just use a boost controller.

The R33 wiring is 1000 times more forgiving than in the R34.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60119-greddy-turbo-kit/#findComment-1154995
Share on other sites

gatty

before you go and get it done, find out just how much for an rb30 bottom end conversion, could work out similar pricing and youll get a crapload more torque and better off boost repsonse., even with the stocker 25 head and 25 turbo it should be a monster with no lag at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60119-greddy-turbo-kit/#findComment-1156446
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...