Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey im planning on getting an R32 gtst for a drift car..

i will be putting in an rb25det manual.

so could i just get an auto r32 gtst?

is the only difference between auto and manual the gearbox etc..

are the breaks the same, (i think its only non turbo and turbo that are different for the breaks?)

any interior differences?

thanks all!

sigh....

brakes are the same, although as an auto may be less optioned as it may more likely be used just for transport. i.e. you may have a greater chance of getting the "non type m" (single pot) brakes... which I have in mine.

interiors are the same from what I've seen.. below the dash cluster on the R32 there is the current gear indicator, but its not part of the speedo cluster like R33. This will stay in the console if you convert it to manual just not work.

You have got a coupe of buttons on the inside console for "power" and "snow" mode or some crap. Thats about it as far as I can tell. When you remove the center gearshift surround, that will all go.

Think they're all still LSD's.. the autos have a shorter diff ratio, which is nicer for acceleration.

I think I saved about $2k by not getting a manual (of unknown condition).. and when it comes time to convert hopefully you'll be going for brand new clutch, reconditioned clutch cylinder, and a gearbox you know will be in nice condition.

Oh yeah, the ECU's will be different.. however generally the auto ECU will run manual fine, just not vice versa.

You can look on my site if you like for pictures if that helps.. one dead-stock auto...

thanks for that.. auto it is then..

another thing.

how much will a fresh rb25det cost + installation? ive been told around 4.5k all up?

also i would be better off getting the car complied AFTER the conversion? or before the conversion?

if its under the 15 year rule you might as well comply it after the conversion afaik , as any road worthy issues with the old engine/gbox would need to be fixed for compliance and that money you obviously dont want to spend .

but considering a front cut rb25det 5 speed is about 5k your going to be spending alot more that 4k! id say 6-7k if a workshop is doing it . if you do all the work yourself and get money back for your old bits it might come in under 5k . but budget for the unexpected to happen , it always does

My Auto R32 is a couple of days away from being on the road. I'm gonna be converting it within a few months to an RB25 manual box (possibly, still undecided). I'm only gonna be slightly working it (between 200 and 250rwkw) so hopefully that should hold her. But yeh, virtually negligible differences - get the auto :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...