Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had engines apart with the "N1" oil pump fitted, as well as stock oil pumps, and I have stripped both stock and N1 pumps. The *ONLY* difference i could see and measure between the two was a longer relief valve spring in the N1 pump, giving higher operating oil pressure. the flow must be the same between them as the rotor widths and teeth numbers were identical. Someone said the metallurgical construction of the rotors differed, i find that very hard to believe myself...

My question is who makes a genuinely higher *FLOW* oil pump with a totally redsigned rotor assembly, probably a wider one? This would demand a new casting as the stock casting hasn't enough material to accomodate a wider rotor assembly.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60400-oil-pumps-questions/
Share on other sites

Sorry, no pics, but the rotors were identical (one set would fit the other pump and vice versa, with same number of "teeth". The only way to get more volume is a wider gear set, or (maybe) more teeth or a tooth form change, at any given pump RPM. I had a Tomei one in my hand yesterday, that was a totally different casting with the relief valve accessable externally, not buried in the sump, and with a wider gear set. A nice thing, but at a nice price too....

I am curious Chris, why do you require more pumped oil volume ?

The oil pump volume increases directly with engine speed. The only time it really becomes an issue is with a very low idle speed setting ?

As others have said the N1 pump has the same swept volume as the standard GTR pump. A high RPM engine can really use a SMALLER oil pump if the idle speed is suitably increased.

I have had engines apart with the "N1" oil pump fitted, as well as stock oil pumps,  and I have stripped both stock and N1 pumps. The *ONLY* difference i could see and measure between the two was a longer relief valve spring in the N1 pump, giving higher operating oil pressure. the flow must be the same between them as the rotor widths and teeth numbers were identical. Someone said the metallurgical construction of the rotors differed, i find that very hard to believe myself...

My question is who makes a genuinely higher *FLOW* oil pump with a totally redsigned rotor assembly, probably a wider one? This would demand a new casting as the stock casting hasn't enough material to accomodate a wider rotor assembly.

Thanks.

Absolutely correct Chris, all the N1 pump does is run at a higher relief pressure. Jun, HKS, Trust and a couple of others make pumps that actually flow more. I don't know what prices you get over there, but I can buy a complete Peterson 4 stage dry sump system for less than Jun want for a replacement pump. Both still require sump mods, so it pretty easy to understand why I go for the dry sump option on the race cars. On the road cars I simply fit a stronger pressure relief spring to the standard GTR oil pump, then it's the same as an N1 pump, costs about $2.

2galtk.jpg

4BCPMP.jpg

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...