Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil pumps questions

Chris Wilson

By Chris Wilson,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris Wilson Proficient

Chris Wilson

Posted
Posted

I have had engines apart with the "N1" oil pump fitted, as well as stock oil pumps, and I have stripped both stock and N1 pumps. The *ONLY* difference i could see and measure between the two was a longer relief valve spring in the N1 pump, giving higher operating oil pressure. the flow must be the same between them as the rotor widths and teeth numbers were identical. Someone said the metallurgical construction of the rotors differed, i find that very hard to believe myself...

My question is who makes a genuinely higher *FLOW* oil pump with a totally redsigned rotor assembly, probably a wider one? This would demand a new casting as the stock casting hasn't enough material to accomodate a wider rotor assembly.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60400-oil-pumps-questions/
Share on other sites
Chris Wilson Proficient

Chris Wilson

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry, no pics, but the rotors were identical (one set would fit the other pump and vice versa, with same number of "teeth". The only way to get more volume is a wider gear set, or (maybe) more teeth or a tooth form change, at any given pump RPM. I had a Tomei one in my hand yesterday, that was a totally different casting with the relief valve accessable externally, not buried in the sump, and with a wider gear set. A nice thing, but at a nice price too....

Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

I am curious Chris, why do you require more pumped oil volume ?

The oil pump volume increases directly with engine speed. The only time it really becomes an issue is with a very low idle speed setting ?

As others have said the N1 pump has the same swept volume as the standard GTR pump. A high RPM engine can really use a SMALLER oil pump if the idle speed is suitably increased.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I have had engines apart with the "N1" oil pump fitted, as well as stock oil pumps,  and I have stripped both stock and N1 pumps. The *ONLY* difference i could see and measure between the two was a longer relief valve spring in the N1 pump, giving higher operating oil pressure. the flow must be the same between them as the rotor widths and teeth numbers were identical. Someone said the metallurgical construction of the rotors differed, i find that very hard to believe myself...

My question is who makes a genuinely higher *FLOW* oil pump with a totally redsigned rotor assembly, probably a wider one? This would demand a new casting as the stock casting hasn't enough material to accomodate a wider rotor assembly.

Thanks.

Absolutely correct Chris, all the N1 pump does is run at a higher relief pressure. Jun, HKS, Trust and a couple of others make pumps that actually flow more. I don't know what prices you get over there, but I can buy a complete Peterson 4 stage dry sump system for less than Jun want for a replacement pump. Both still require sump mods, so it pretty easy to understand why I go for the dry sump option on the race cars. On the road cars I simply fit a stronger pressure relief spring to the standard GTR oil pump, then it's the same as an N1 pump, costs about $2.

2galtk.jpg

4BCPMP.jpg

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manur33
      Rb25det coil loom wire identification

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • davemoto63
      Stagea choice's which model??

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • davemoto63
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...