Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok i now have a HKS 2530 turbo to go onto the RB20DET, also hopefully going to buy a Power FC!

Anyway I have a set of GTR injectors and am wondering how hard they are to convert into high independence? I try to do most of the mechanical work on my car but am unsure if i can install this "resistor pack"???

I was talking to a fellow skyline owner and he commented about my stock clutch and said "dont bother taking it to get tuned with that clutch, as it will melt!" (he is one of those people who really dont like to be beaten and then craps on saying i need to spend more money etc...) I thought it would be fine as long as you dont launch as high RPM's etc...

Also im 4 hours drive away from where i get my car tuned, would it be ok to bolt the turbo up, install the power FC and injectors and just cruise down (not boosting at all)

Thanks for your help!

Luke

Of course you'd make it fine if you dont boost it up, (as the clutch wont be asked to withstand any serious power).

However, how long your clutch lasts will depend on a few things, such as how bad it is right now:).

I had a friend who had the same turbo as you(he'll probably see this post and elighten further), and his was tuned using stock ecu with an SAFC - he was well and truly maxing the injectors out, and the stock clutch was still holding.

having said that, my car's clutch also held out fine, i have a more conservative 250rwhp~~

Your average stock clutch, will definately wear a lot quicker under lots of power - duh, but having said that, at max power on stock injectors - it isn't just going to wear out on the spot.

Best bet is to take it easy, and keep your eyes out for a FS post on here with a nice twin plate in it or something, - and most people would say - put a superlight flywheel in at the same time:)

---------------------------

Summary, my open diff is locking up under the power - my clutch is still holding

Take it relatively easy and you'll be fine, Considering that you'llneed the PowerFC and a tune to get any real power happening, it'll take more than one go to burn the clutch out

*providing the clutch isn't already worn to buggery*

Good way to as I have done the same except with a HKS GT2535.

There is a thread with lots of info on how to install GTR injectors on the RB20det(will find thread after work)

It would be best to get a decent clutch :cheers:

I drove around with the PFC,GTR injectors,Z32 AFM and the GT2535 for a week before it was tuned.I did'nt really get it on boost and took it easy.One thing you need to do is get into the INJ menu and put the injector % down.I will post more after I get home from work

Sounds like your car is coming along nicely.

I would have to agree with your mate concerning the stock clutch, i wouldnt expect it to hold up for long, start saving for a new one.

I have an RB20 with similar mods to you. I run GTR Injectors as well, the fuel rail was modified slightly and my ECU has the ability to run at different impedence. I dont know a whole lot concerning the impedence rates etc and what they did but it works fine and wasnt a hassle (i run a LINK ecu).

What i would strongly suggest to you, is that you install the ecu and injectors at the dyno place.

When we put my injectors in, the car ran super super super rich, black smoke coming out of the exhaust etc, and the tuner is only 10mins from the workshop so it was ok... but your 4 hours away. Just be careful when it concerns fuel mixtures because if its too lean it will sh1t itself, and if its too rich well... that just sucks, its not too healthy. These are just precautions though... but you do have to drive for 4 hours.

I would hate to see you spend cash on these mods, and then be set back by a blown motor when u wack them on.

Good Luck =)

hawker05,

Do a search and u'll find a post about one guy installing the resistor pack and injectors who has a pretty detailed list to follow.......to put it basically, you must cut into the power wire from the ecu to the injector and insert the resistor pack there. if you need a wiring diagram let me know. Once you complete the injectors, install the power fc with battery disconnected, boost controller option switched off.......and change your injector compensation on the pfc and she should be all good to get u to the tune shop driving easily. It is also said that the AP engineering PFC have a more agressive base map.

I'm no mechanic and i'm just going off my memory.

Cheers

George

.....  I run GTR Injectors as well, the fuel rail was modified slightly and my ECU has the ability to run at different impedence.  I dont know a whole lot concerning the impedence rates etc and what they did but it works fine and wasnt a hassle (i run a LINK ecu)....  

If they were GTR injectors then the RB20 fuel rail shoudlnt require any mods whatsoever. Wiring up the resistor pack so you can use the PFc is pretty easy, like others have said, do a search, there is enough info so thats its an pretty easy DIY 8hr job.

As for driving the car, if its a Pfc, just tweak the injector % like R31Power suggests, or ask nicely and some kind folk may help you out with a base map, there are a few PFC / GTR injector/ 2530-2535 guys getting around now that you will be able to get a tune close to the mark, good enough to drive to/from tuner, and good eough to save you money on the dyno as it will be near the mark:)

If they were GTR injectors then the RB20 fuel rail shoudlnt require any mods whatsoever.  

*shrugs* thats what my mechanic said to me:

"i'll need to modify the fuel rail a little bit"

I didnt pay for the work done to the car, it was done for free... so i doubt he'd lie about it, but on the same token, he doesnt work on R32s a whole lot, mainly R33s in the Skyline family and if they are R32s they are GTR's... so he may have got it wrong =)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...