Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Posting this up for a friend...

My friend recently got a r32 gtr and with these mods...

HKS 2530 turbos

Injectors

Fuel reg

Tripple plate clutch

Boost at 15psi

(still running standard computer)

He got 207 atw and is kinda dissapointed.. is he expecting too much??

I gave him a run in my r33 gtst and beat him? does this sound right?!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61047-32-gtr-dissapointed/
Share on other sites

with all the mods you listed, your friend's GTR should come with something like PowerFC instead of standard ECU

anyway, i believe that RB26DETT equipped with GT2530s should make over 300KW at around 1.3bar of boost....so i guess your friend just needs to get an aftermarket computer like PowerFC, MOTEC and get some1 to fit and tune it properly.

Strongly recommand Ben from RACEPACE to do the job~~~~!!!

RACEPACE Motorsport

9/6 Holloway Drive

Bayswater VIC 3153

(03) 9762 9421

My GTR is stock and makes 206kw at all four. There is something definately wrong.

That's strange. My stock 33 GTR only made 174awkw when it was dead stock. To get 200+, I had to change the exhaust and cam gears and a PowerFC.

As mentioned, a good stock internaled engine with 2530s and around 1.3 bar will make around 320rwkw as tested by both Ice Performance and Racepace (The car was Emre's 33 GTR). The only performance mods were injectors, fuel pump, cam gears, exhaust, PowerFC, clutch and OS Giken Cross Mission gearbox.

I'd be looking into an aftermarket ECU quick smart. Power FC will do the job fine.

That's strange. My stock 33 GTR only made 174awkw when it was dead stock. To get 200+, I had to change the exhaust and cam gears and a PowerFC.

As mentioned, a good stock internaled engine with 2530s and around 1.3 bar will make around 320rwkw as tested by both Ice Performance and Racepace (The car was Emre's 33 GTR). The only performance mods were injectors, fuel pump, cam gears, exhaust, PowerFC, clutch and OS Giken Cross Mission gearbox.

I'd be looking into an aftermarket ECU quick smart. Power FC will do the job fine.

Ok sorry, my GTR with stock dumps, 2 1/2 front pipes, 3" inch cat back, panel filter, 0.9bar, stock ecu, stock cams, stock cam gears, stock injectors, stock fuel reg, stock fuel pump and standard steering wheel made 206.3awkw.

Either way with 2530's that's piss-weak.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...