Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have a SAFCII which has been dyno tuned on my car & runs a dream but i dont think i have a knock sensor connected up to it because the reading from the display is always 0.....

I have no idea what they look like or where they're connected, all i know I'd like one & i'll get my mechanic to install it for me.

So yeh, where can i buy a knock sensor to connect up to my SAFC?

Thanks, :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61249-knock-sensor/
Share on other sites

Hi

I have a SAFCII which has been dyno tuned on my car & runs a dream but i dont think i have a knock sensor connected up to it because the reading from the display is always 0.....

I have no idea what they look like or where they're connected, all i know I'd like one & i'll get my mechanic to install it for me.

So yeh, where can i buy a knock sensor to connect up to my SAFC?

Thanks, :rofl:

Your engine will have a knock sensor built in, two infact I think. No idea of the SAFC connects to these or whatever, never used one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61249-knock-sensor/#findComment-1157767
Share on other sites

I'll ring up the place which dyno tuned my SAFCII & ask them if they can connect it. I remember the guy saying when he dyno tuned my car on Optimax fuel that it was detonating slightly @ 12psi, he said you wouldnt know it but i did because of the knock reading I had. He would have been using his equipment to monitor the knocking.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61249-knock-sensor/#findComment-1158300
Share on other sites

Well i solved my own problem today.

I downloaded the SAFCII manual off the Apexi site today & went into the Sensor Check on the controller. Yay... i do have a working knock meter, it was displaying raw data. The next was to set it. So i went into the Set Knock & held the rpm at 1500 to get 115 then 3500 rpm to get 117. These were done in neutral as your're meant to & is the raw figures.

Sweet so the knock display now reads around 8 - 11 when ideling @ 700 - 800 rpm. But once i start moving & get above around1500 rpm the knock reading goes to 0. I thought it would still show something higher than 0 so I wound the boost to 12psi & gave it some for a few minutes. I still got nothing, was always displaying 0. The air outside was cool too as for its the end of the day & its been raining.

Im just wondering what figures do other people with SAFCIIs get?

I did the Set Knock feature twice, when i first did it the raw figures were more like 95 - 98. 5 minutes later after mucking around revving it in idle setting the knock the figures went up to 110 - 120.

All of these setting were done after the car already being driven for 30 minutes.

I dont know if 0 is just really good or what’s the deal? I have had the SAFCII dyno tuned & I run 12:1 A/F Ratio's. I might try the Set Knock again on a warmer day with a more average outside temperature.

Any one with experience setting their knock & their display figures would be much appreciated.

Thanks, :cheeers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61249-knock-sensor/#findComment-1164249
Share on other sites

That sounds perfectly normal to me mate... Mine does the exact same thing... If / when it pings, you will get a reading of around 80+ for the duration of the pinging...

A reading of 0 whilst accelerating is fine and to be expected with the SAFCII...

You may find your idle knock reading will go as high as 30 when the car has been driven for more than a few hours during the day... This too is normal...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61249-knock-sensor/#findComment-1164274
Share on other sites

Owww sweet sounds good then. Yeh it will be good to know if my engine is detonating now so i can look after it. I was thinking of getting an Air/Fuel ratio gauge too.

Also, have you played around with the Warning setting in the SAFCII, supposedly you can get the SAFCII to notify you or react somehow when a parameter you set is exceeded *eg too high knock figure*. I'll have to have a good read of the manual again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61249-knock-sensor/#findComment-1164311
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
    • You just need a different blue slip shop (preferably one you regularly use as a mechanic), and make sure the coil overs are as close as possible to standard height
    • yeah the sugar refining companies were pushing for the same in Oz originally, all fuels were going to have 10% ethanol to make them "cheaper" (noting, that the loss in l/100 might be greater than the decrease in price). I guess they won that fight in Canadia
×
×
  • Create New...