Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got my car back from the compliance workshop today and I took a look at it. The back child anchor points isn't even put in. The bottom plate has been secured underneath the parcel self but the actual anchor hook thing isn't screwed in from the top. By the looks of it they have drilled behind the speaker grill and then they realised that the anchor points won't fit behind there and just left it as it is. Also they have drilled one of the anchor points off centred. How much can it be off centred? They have also drilled from the bottom up and obviously hit the window because now there is a scratch mark in my rear tinting on both sides. Is this unavoidable as drilling upwards is hard or should I go back and see what they say?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61486-compliance-workshop-troubles/
Share on other sites

I just got my car back from the compliance workshop today and I took a look at it. The back child anchor points isn't even put in. The bottom plate has been secured underneath the parcel self but the actual anchor hook thing isn't screwed in from the top. By the looks of it they have drilled behind the speaker grill and then they realised that the anchor points won't fit behind there and just left it as it is. Also they have drilled one of the anchor points off centred. How much can it be off centred? They have also drilled from the bottom up and obviously hit the window because now there is a scratch mark in my rear tinting on both sides. Is this unavoidable as drilling upwards is hard or should I go back and see what they say?

Well you can't drill down unless you remove the rear window

Yeh i kind of figured that he will have to drill up and its unavoidable so i'm not so worried about that. What's worrying me is how close to the centre of the seating position the anchorage point has to be because I remember hearing it has to be within a certain area near the centre position. Does anyone have pictures of how their's is done?

yeah, i just did mine..

as close as possible to the centre of the seating position, but like you say thats nigh impossible because of the speaker holes... but it had to sit a fair way back as the speaker holes are in the way.

I rivetted twice each point to hold the bracket in.. sits just behind the speaker cutouts (I had no speakers). And even if I do say so myself, I did a ****ing awesome job :-D

Will post a pic next copule of days for you..

to do the job right you need to make up brackets that bolt to the shelf and protrude up to clear the speaker then back down again and bolt down to the shelf .....these are supposd to go directly behind the headrest's

Yeh i kind of figured that he will have to drill up and its unavoidable so i'm not so worried about that. What's worrying me is how close to the centre of the seating position the anchorage point has to be because I remember hearing it has to be within a certain area near the centre position. Does anyone have pictures of how their's is done?

I was told within 40mm of the centre of the seat

In my opinon marks in the back window is lazy. You have to drill up, but just use a short drill bit or use some timber as a depth control. All these places charge top dollar and just slap em through. I would take it back. If you want something done right just do it your self.

well there must be some conjecture.. as I have seen them both right behind the seat, and right behind the speaker holes (i.e. right back towards the glass).. so there must be some different interpretations... Either way they're being passed with both.

I just copied GTR V's points (thanks again), as his got through fine. I hope mine are in the right position, as buggered if I want to do them again!

I think the key is the "centre of the seating position" rather than how far back they are... because i have seen them in the two positions regularly.

I don't know how you could manage to scratch the glass, but you'd have to be trying pretty hard.. and using the world's longest drill bit.

like duncan says.. not a bad idea .. if its SEVS its the workshop's responsibility to get it right.

Anyhow, took a few pix of mine..

the first photo shows how its rivetted in. Hopefully I've done it right, as I'm just playing it by ear here.. Its very solid.

The 3rd shows the positioning there.. I built another parcel shelf, and to hide the ugly speaker holes until i get some in the back there.

You can see in the 2nd photo in the another car I just picked up over the weekend. Interestingly enough on that one, points are back rather than right up against the seat.. yet in my mate's GTR they are right up against the seat. Its almost like 50/50.

So bah, who knows.. we'll find out when i meet an engineer.

It's under 15 year old rule. I'll try to get some pics to show you. Thanks for your pics predator, mine is wayyyy back against the back window. They drilled through the edge of the speaker grill so there a hole there that I can just feel when i reach all the way back. My tinting is very dark so I don't know how I'm going to take the picture from the outside, but I'll work something out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...