Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

now, i'm a membrt of the SES, and as part of our training we had to learn all about hydraulics, its been a while since i learnt about pascals theory from physics in school, so i read up about it, and can now apply the pascal theory to a BOV.

A BOV will open up when there is vacume pulling on it, there is a spring in side that allows this operation only at a pre determined vacum pressure ... in a similar way, it is closed when above atmospheric pressure is applied to it ...

the simple matter is, when you run MORE boost, there is no way for the bov to leak, as an equal amount of pressure is closing the value as to the amount of pressure being applied to try and open it from the bov inlet side ...

is my thinking correct here so far ?

so if this is true, there is NO performance gain over having an aftermarket bov, there is no LOSS to keeping the standard bov as in pascals theory, it is unable to leak .. aparently simple physics determins it true ....

have i got it all wrong ?

comments anyone ?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61539-bov-theory/
Share on other sites

thats how it works with more expensive BOV's like the HKS super sequential. the boost pressure forces the valve shut. however with your cheaper ones like turbosmart and GFB they just have a piston and a spring inside a trick housing. the spring can handle so much boost and not compress but when the throttle is closed that pressure increases and compresses the spring and pushes the piston past the ports and releases the air.

these cheap bovs can leak under idle and full boost if they cant handle the pressure. standard bovs can leak under boost aswell.

it is worthwhile upgrading them, and also spending dollars on them, usually stock ones are better then most cheap a/m ones.

hope that helps

cheers

Linton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61539-bov-theory/#findComment-1162613
Share on other sites

NZM.031, i'm not sure which turbosmart BOV you're talking about, but i'm sure they work in the way Tang0 has described. (My plumback does anyway). The port on the cap is connected to the intake manifold, so when on boost the combined pressure of the spring and boost pushing against the BOV piston is greater than boost only on the inlet side of the BOV, hence the valve stays shut.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61539-bov-theory/#findComment-1162696
Share on other sites

tang0,

correct.. This is why the stock RB bov is known for holding such high boost pressures.

The stock bov does age and tend to get a little weak, causing leaking on idle and leaking when on boost. I've seen one that leaks just a little too much. Well compared to my stock bov.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61539-bov-theory/#findComment-1162719
Share on other sites

My std BOV was leaking so i replaced it (yes i tested it with a magnahelic gauge from work)

When i replaced it i had a look at the std jobbie, and i reckon the only reason it was leaking was it wasnt seating properly because of the all the carbon/oil etc build up. A clean and i reckin it would have been alright, but by then i already had my HKS jobbie on and liked the sound:whackit:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61539-bov-theory/#findComment-1162761
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...