Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've recently bought a Hybrid cooler in a group buy and I've been looking at piping options.

As I live in the country there is noone who specialises in performance fabrication.

The local exhaust shops dont even do TIG welding and one wanted $120 for a single 180 degree bend in 304 SS

I've found some aluminium tubing and mandrel bends for a very reasonable price at a place that manufactures aluminium gates and handrails etc and they can also TIG weld it for me.

The diameter is the same as the stock R32 gts-t piping (60mm OD- 57mm ID)

I know this is a bit smaller than most aftermarket kits use but I'd prefer to keep the piping as small as possible without it being too restrictive to keep it responsive and because it will fit better.

My power target for this car when mods are finished is about 160rwkws for everyday use and 200 rwkws for some occassional fun.

The next size up is 80mm OD- 76mm ID but it's a special order and can only be bought by the 6m length and the bends use a larger radius.

I've seen 80mm piping used on cars making 400+kw so is the 60mm piping going to be big enough for my modest needs?

Take it to an irrigation-pump shop where they do alluminium piping for farms, and those fellas can whip up the sort of bends a city exhaust shop can only dream of. One of the best exhaust fella in bris used to be a alloy pipe fabricator for a large turf farm. Now guess where i got my pipes done?

if it's before your intercooler you could use something the same size or bigger than your turbo outlet.

On my GTR the outlet of the turbo's are 38mm. so when I high mounted them I've run two 38mm pipes into a single 50mm which then expands into 3' this was just for a better fit. 50mm still has more surface area than two 38mm pipes so it will still flow more and then it runs into the 3' cooler piping. as long as you don't go smaller it should be OK.

Take it to an irrigation-pump shop where they do alluminium piping for farms, and those fellas can whip up the sort of bends a city exhaust shop can only dream of. One of the best exhaust fella in bris used to be a alloy pipe fabricator for a large turf farm. Now guess where i got my pipes done?

Would you mind posting the business name and phone number so we can all benefit from his expertise?

Quote awurth

if it's before your intercooler you could use something the same size or bigger than your turbo outlet

What about the pipe after the cooler?

BTW

Quote awurth

50mm still has more surface area than two 38mm pipes

The cross-sectional area of 2x38mm is actually greater than 1x50mm :rofl:

If its mandrel bent, then it will work perfectly. 60mm is just over 2 and a quarter OD. This size is used by alot of intercooler kits. Some others use 2 and a half (63.5mm), this is only a 24% increase in cross section. Guys use 2 and a half inch for up to 400kw easy. It will easy flow well.

Another point, if your total lenght of intercooler piping is around 4m (mine is),

times this by cross section and you get volume of air in piping (4*pi*(.03)^2)=.011309m^3. Now a 2ltr motor uses 2ltr of air per 4 revolutions, or 2000ltr (2m^3) per minute at atmosphere pressure. at 15psi @ 4000rpm = 4m^3 per minute=0.0666m^3 per second.

So now a 2ltr motor at 4000rpm @15psi will be swallowing .0666m^3 per second, so to fill your intercooler piping (one aspect of lag) will take .16 of a second. ha. crap all. if you do these calulations for 3" pipe it is quite similar (.26sec).

You will find that most lag is the turbo having to spin up although you can feel that fraction of a second if anyone has run a motor without any intercooler at all.

(these calcs did not include filling the intercooler up with air, (another .2sec approx)

The 60mm piping will be exactly what you want.

it shouldn't

I used piping the same size as the stock R33 pipes, which i think is the same

I dyno'd my car with cooler, exhaust, boost (9psi) and SAFC2 (A/F ratio's at a perfectly flat 12:1 all through the power band), and achived 200rwkw.

If all stock intake pipes you wont be changing are 60mm, why would using larger pipes just before/after the cooler make a difference?

The 60mm should be more than adequate for your modest needs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...