Jump to content
SAU Community

LOUD Sqeeeeling noises!!!!!!

flex
 Share

Recommended Posts

flex Community Regular

flex

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

i've got a ****ed up problem... i've been to a proffesional brake/suspension workshop to have a look at my brakes... but they are ****en noobs. well anywayz, to let you know my problem... is that, when my wheels get hot (after braking a certain amount of time)... theres this loud sqeeling sound coming from the wheels... and when i mean loud... i mean ****en LOUD... you can here it from a block away. my brake fluid is bleed properly, my pistons are working alright, my rotors are all recently machined, even my brake pads have been sandpapered, incase it was glazed.... and the problem is still there!!!!! i've had this noise for 12 months now guys, and i'm ****en pissed... what maybe causing this problem? could it be, that i use two different brake pads on the front and rear? which may have different temperature limits.... or should this not be a problem? i've given up man, ****en went schitzo at the mechanic... is there any place you guys recommend me to get it fixed? or any advice on how to stop this ugly noise. please guys, i'm in desperate needs...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62072-loud-sqeeeeling-noises/
Share on other sites
GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Just a couple of thoughts. Were they bedded in properly? Procedure that works is on DBA's website. Are the shims and springs all fitted correctly? I occasionally get some squeal but only after a while without trackwork. I actually run without the shims for a firmer pedal.

  • 3 weeks later...
Restless 33 Proficient

Restless 33

Posted
Posted

mine has this aswell...it's ear peircing. i get it most of the time like 99% and it pisses me off after only 2 weeks or so. it's not jsut a squeel it's an ear piercing squeeling noise. any ideas. i jsut got my car and am not sure wat to try.

Eug Grand Master

Eug

Posted
Posted

what brake pads are you guys using? I heard bendix pads squeek like hell, but stop

like a cop passing a donut shop.

Try changing pads? I wud think that its pretty obvious that its when the pads are pressed

onto the rotors, and since you havent changed the rotors it wud be the pads.

Zahos Mentor

Zahos

Posted
Posted

It is the way the pads have been installed, and bedded in.

I used racebrakes RB74's on my car and the sqeeled like a mother fcuker! Many others quote that they get NO squeeling from them. I know now that I didn't install the shims properly when I put them in. The squeeling came at low speeds (<40 km/h).

Then I got bendix ultimates. Many have said that these squeel just as bad, but I didn't even bed them in properly, and they are fine! Not a single sound, and this is my second pair on the front! With the bendix though, I installed the shims properly.

Find out what pads you are using, and check that you have anti squeel shims. If you dont, that could be the reason, if you do, possibly give them a clean.

That's all I have to offer from my experience.

Z

GTR32 Rising Star

GTR32

Posted
Posted

there is a long thread or two on this very issue. i had bad squealing - unbearable - with new dba 5000 and ds 2500 pads. tried everything - stick on shims, camfering pad leading and trailing edges, nothing helped. swapped 5000 discs to 4000 with no shims and the problem went away. tried lucas pads - recommended by DBA to stop the squeal - with the 5000 rotors and while the squeal is no where near as bad it has come back to some extent.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      New kid on the block

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • iain_ST44GA
      M35 VQ25DET starter motor

      By iain_ST44GA · Posted

      Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...