Jump to content
SAU Community

Which BOV?

DaGr81

By DaGr81,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

1.) the sound it will make is not the same as the SR20 powered cars.

it is similar but not the same.

on the SR20's, that noise is caused even though they have the stock plumb back bov attached.

the return line of the S15 and S15's isn't large enough so once you increase boost a little bit, you start hearing that "DO DO DO" sound you described so well.

I can show you this in my car if you are in sydney.

The sound the skyline's make with no bov is more like a rattle snake.. like "trrrrrrrrrrr"

However, once you get a FMIC, the sound changes once again.

2.) Yes you need to block off the vacuum line as well.

a screw will do for that.

3.) Wether this damages the turbo is a whole other story.

there is no real evidence that it does or doesn't.

I know the theory of what happens with no bov all too well so no need to tell me.

Everyone has their own story/theory of what no bov will do or not do.

I don't feel the need to add mine as I have done it too many times and people obviously don't know how to search.

I'll add 2 things though.

1.) I had an ex rally car. it was a 88 Laser TX3 turbo. 1.6L

hi flow turbo.

was putting out 120kw at the front wheels when I disengaged the rears.

this thing was rallied for 50,000kms and I had it for about 20,000kms on the road.

the stock bov was removed.

it was running 1 Bar boost for the whole time, fluttering away on each gear change.

never had any turbo problems..

many others but no turbo ones.

2.) I chose to run the stock bov on my current car and even when I had my skyline for the simple reason that the car worked/works better.

it idles better, it doesn't jerk when you back off from throttle slowly..

it just runs smoother.

Even though my current S14 runs 1 bar boost and on anything above 5psi, it will flutter, normal driving on the road where you are on and off the throttle slowly rather than fast and harsh like on a track, the car behaves better.

up to you what you want.

I personally wouldn't go with no bov and my reasons are above.

if you want the "LOOK AT ME" thing, then go right ahead.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62285-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-1177651
Share on other sites
  • 2 years later...
iam2pro4u Newbie

iam2pro4u

Posted
Posted

From what i understand and what others are saying its not a bov your after. Like the other guy said about taking the stock bov off and clogging the hole. This is actually bad for your turbo. That sound your askin for is compressor surge. When the throttle body closes all the boost built up has no where to go since u have no bov so it throws it back through the turbo making the chh chhhh chhhhh sound. Definately not recommend man.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62285-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-3511669
Share on other sites
Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

I personally have a HKS SSQ BOV - it makes a very nice SSHHHTTTT sound... not too loud which is wankie pankie in my opinion... bu you do need a bit of a let off sound as it' a turbo... I have an apexi power flow pod, fmic and a hks ssq - all three work in harmony and you get a SSHHHETTTTTFFF tu tu tu sound which is capped off with a fluttering sound which is tough as ... I reckon this is style... so yeah, my hats off to the HKS SSQ - if you do go for this, get that latest model as the older ones tend to affect your air flow metre and can be troublesome.

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62285-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-3511768
Share on other sites
H@ME Mentor

H@ME

Posted
Posted
The fine for an atmospheric BOV is

"Undue noise" $240 in QLD and 3 points

So if you get a quiet one you will be right. I had a turbo smart maximus the biggest they make on my old skyline and everytime i let off i had people on the foot path jump and other cars look and stare so i got rid of it.... HKS SSQV is the only way to go now...

yeah i use an apexi power d1 intake pod with a HKS ssq BOv n i get the nice flutter sound however i have alloy piping which helps a little, but it not to wanky.

i didn't know that was the penalty!! $240 & 3 points!!! wow :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62285-which-bov/page/2/#findComment-3512871
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...