Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

g'day g'day peeps

just took the gtr for a blat tonight and just after wasting this kinda hot chick in an xr8, i heard a funny sort of "pfwoosh" noise when i grabbed third and punched the clutch out/acc in. this resulted in like 2psi of boost pressure and no urge whatsoever (...and the falcodore was still munched muahahaa).

now, instantly i've thought "hmm must've popped an intercooler hose" but i couldn't really see anything abnormal after a quick inspection. i'll have to confirm this when its not dark, but what other causes could it be? what does throwing a ceramic turbine wheel sound like? fortunately i've never had to experience that... any other ideas?

also, am i likely to get detonation/leaning-out if i run the sucker like this till i can get it sorted-out (if i can't do it in my driveway).

cheers

d

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/62772-gtr-problems-sigh/
Share on other sites

somehow i managed to snap the rear ceramic turbine wheel on the day of 2004 QLD Drag Combat (i remember it was 45 degree).

it drove like a non turbo vehicle. well...actually worse than any NA car. there was no power at all....if you are in the same stiuation....i guess it's your turbo(s).

If it idles like crap and blows black smoke id say its a hose. If it idles ok then id say youve popped the turbo (does it blow any smoke out the rear when you should be coming onto boost?).

When mine let go it didnt make any bad noises, just when I came on throttle again there was no power and white smoke belching out the back (oil burning).

"pfwoosh" noise

I think a blown hose too....I had the same thing happen under WOT, the noise actually made me jump as it was quite loud and sounded like some sort of cool weapon :P

It brought my car to an abrupt stop as it stalled...it was a confusing few seconds as I didn't know what the hell was going on...loud noises, heavy steering etc etc.

Check to see if it's actually a tear in the side of a hose maybe....

cheers for the responses fellas

the update, after closer inspection and a bit of driving is that its probably not the turbines. it still makes boost (up to about 4-5psi). it takes an age to get to that sort of boost pressure (above 5k) and its making a hissing sort of sound (like air escaping from somewhere) when i'm moving through the revrange. the sound its putting out is quite loud and increases as revs increase.

now, it could very well be a bit of silicone hose but i went over it last night and, while i had the sucker on axle stands and attacked every nook and cranny with prying eyes and leadlights, could be wrong. but generally, all the hoses and clamps seem to be just fine.

i've also discovered that the previous owner plumbed in some hks piping with a pair of the original/series1 sequential bovs, AS WELL as the factory suckers down low in the guard plumbed back behind the afms. are 4x bov's commonplace from these crazy japanese people!!!?? seems illogical to me!

the symptoms. car seems to drive just as smoothly. idle hangs around the 1k mark like it usually does and it still possesses a "bit" of poke.

tracking down the problem is gonna be a pain. it doesn't blow a heap of smoke as far as i can tell (no more than usual cos the jap rechip is obviously very very rich anyway). no odd white smoke from the turbos as far as i can tell either. is burnt oil a surefire sign of a stuffed turbine wheel?

and how did skylinegeoff burn his line!!???!? by god i surely don't want that to happen! i've owned the thing for like 3 weeks!!!! :P

cheers again.

david

4 BOV's!?!?!? WTF?

I've heard of 4 before, but it was damn stupid and i didn't really believe it.

But yea, i guess they must be uhh, really, cautious about, uhh, backblow etc ??

If you have checked everything else, then (this might sound stupid, but worth a try), check the BOV's themselves, perhaps one of them "carked it", and somehow got "stuck open", or is just really "loose". Not entirely sure if that's possible, but worth checking i guess

I have had a similar problem, had 4 BOVs hooked up on one of our cars.. 2 stock, 2 HKS crappers.

The car just didn't have the pull, and there was a leaking sound. We first blocked up the 2 stock ones, nope didn't fix it.

Then we blocked up the 2 HKS BOV's.. and it was like a new car. Went from doing high 13's to doing high 11's :cheers:

Could quite possibly be the HKS ones..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...