Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you post a photo?

Here's a few ways to tell the difference:

R34N1's are ball bearing (see if it spins easy)

R34N1's have 9 blades on the turbine compared to 11 for the R33

R34N1's compressor housing does NOT have the A/R marked on it

R34N1's have a divider between the wastegate and turbine

You should be able to work it out from that.

Cheers,

Gary.

Guest Mashrock
Gees, thanks for the info. Guess they're not 34s cause A/R is marked and plus there is no divider for wastegate gases...but they sure as hell spin easily. They're actualy meant toi be NISMO N1s. Could these be BB?

all n1's are bb, i beleive.

quick queation how much u pick them up for?

and are you doing cams also. this would be rather advised.

quick queation how much u pick them up for?

.

Just a note on this i just recently picked up two brand new R34 N1 turbos for my GTR so new they had not even been removed from the nissan box and wrapping.

the only cost me $3000 for the two, and thats to my door. i know a guy who sells them for about $2800 for the pair brand new :bananaman

Guest Mashrock
Just a note on this i just recently picked up two brand new R34 N1 turbos for my GTR so new they had not even been removed from the nissan box and wrapping.

the only cost me $3000 for the two, and thats to my door. i know a guy who sells them for about $2800 for the pair brand new  :bananaman

with n1 actuators?

is that how its spelt??

with n1 actuators?

is that how its spelt??

yep with n1 actuaters well there direct from nissan so what ever ones they fit on them there nice and small compared to all the other turbos i have bought in the past for my other cars.

all n1's are bb, i beleive.

quick queation how much u pick them up for?

and are you doing cams also. this would be rather advised.

My bro got them from Banzai motorsports for ~$2500 I think (ANTS?).

Cams... what size do you recommend? Its true that the GTR has piss small cams standard (unlike the FJ20). Personally, I think a GT3540 plus a set of 272s would be nice!

Dude, turbs cost me $1,900 from Banzai.

Yes, I agree GT3540 would be nice. Pls buy me one.

Seb, I also got a new exhaust manifold gasket today from Hi Octane Racing.

Now filing for bankruptcy. :P

OohArrGtr

check the serial number (from above post) - if they are R34s - then they should be good for 600+ hp on your GTR.

I have just had a pair fitted - waiting to run in the new bottom end.

BTW - nismo.com.au list them as 320hp and are selling the pair for $4K + I think

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...