Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What rpm was the 108rwkw made at? Also what was your tourqe figure and at what rpm? I pulled 119rwkw with a 3"cat back, pod, thermo fan, no aircon. I was a bit dissapointed but I guess I wanted to much! The thing pulls great though!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yeah, im kainda disappointed, i had changed oil and fulel filter, engine oil, spark plugs, to brand new iridiums bout 20 mins before... had that mobil 8000 shit which i find better than optimax and was hopin for about 110@ wheels my second run was worse, only made 99.7kw @ wheels..

they said full exhaust (dump, front pipe, hi-flo cat etc.) and boosted will make guaranteed 150 at wheels?????

That would seem about right actually, a guy at my work has the R32 Silvertop in his HR31 coupe, it is completely standard including airbox and all. The only thing it has is a bleed valve set at 10psi and it made 127rwkw so your figure on stock boost seems about right.

10psi is stock on silvertops anyways i thought

i picked up 20kw at rears from a turbo dump back 3inch hiflow exhaust ..mind u my ole school ECCS redtop 20det only made 96rwkw bog stock as a rock with auto .....

Matt

yeah, im kainda disappointed, i had changed oil and fulel filter, engine oil, spark plugs, to brand new iridiums bout 20 mins before... had that mobil 8000 shit which i find better than optimax and was hopin for about 110@ wheels my second run was worse, only made 99.7kw @ wheels..  

they said full exhaust (dump, front pipe, hi-flo cat etc.) and boosted will make guaranteed 150 at wheels?????

I made 149rwkw's with full 3" exhaust from turbo back, 11PSI and a hot air pod! Exhaust would have to be one of the best early upgrade mods u can do!

what is essentially the difference between stainless exhausts and mild steel... i can only see one which is on has a bling factor, and also gives the node a bit more of a metalic sound to it... and doesn't expand as much as parsay... and the other is just mild steel... dunno

what is essentially the difference between stainless exhausts and mild steel... i can only see one which is on has a bling factor, and also gives the node a bit more of a metalic sound to it... and doesn't expand as much as parsay... and the other is just mild steel... dunno

exactly what u said, oh and also doesn't rust, i'd just go mild steel!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...