Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i made a flat bootlid a while ago (not for an R33 though) using space filler, wood and fibreglass. What you do is you make a wood lattice (2 pieces of wood crossed over 2 pieces, with one piece on the end where the back of the boot is.

_|_|_

_|_|_

like so.

The wood pieces are of the correct size so they sit JUST under the line of the bootlid you want. Then you fill in the squares with space filler... don't get the rubbery ones that are hard to shape. I prefer to use the poly-ethelene type ones which set to a hard foam. Prior to doing all this you'll want to protect your back of the car with plastic sheets. Then you get a snader and shape the foam to a nice smooth back, then lay fibreglass on it and optionally gelcoat it. This is your plug. you then make a mould using the plug, doing exactly the same thing but in reverse. And then you just make as many fibreglass flat bootlids as you want. :D

So get cracking... it'll cost you maybe $150 in materials. And once you have amould you can make em for everyone lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63242-r33-flat-boot/#findComment-1191931
Share on other sites

gee thanks that was helpfull in a way....lol....I did think that the part about the foam filler was interesing though...Maybe going down this road to fill in the holes then just bog and smooth untill the desired effect is reached is the way to go......

The funny thing is ive seen it done b4 and i now wished that i asked how it was done.

Other people in the past say that they welded plates into place then,bog and smooth untill the desired effect is reached is the way to go......The only thing wrong is it has never been said how 2 weld the plates.Im supposing some real thin stainless over the top of the holes then bog and smooth.

Even bog straight in the holes would be an option but a heavier 1 than foam filling.And foam filler i heard goes weird after a while Would it also be safe to bog over the top of knowing that the foam could loose it's integrity leaving a really thin layer of bog?

fiberglass,ummm,dont they only come in sheets?Would they be plyable enuff to stuff in the holes,let set, then bog and smooth etc.. like the other 2 possible end finishes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63242-r33-flat-boot/#findComment-1192411
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...