Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

I'm thinking about buying a half cut - then doing a converison on my R33 (RB25DE) to a RB25DET

I don't want any replies telling me to sell the car and buy a turbo 33 - because thats not what I want to do :)

I'm after any information from anyone who knows how, or has done it before. How hard is it to do? How different are the looms? Will any changes need to be made?

I was looknig at a friends RB25DET and there seems to be a shitload more stuff not only under the bonett - but also under the parcel shelf etc?

Also any info on how to remove the motor wuold be great too :D

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63667-help-rb25de-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think there's a very long thread on this somewhere... DAN666 did it with an r34 pretty sure.

His was a turbo bolted onto a NA i think.

As far as the conversion goes, try and get a hold of an rb25DE pinout diagram and an RB25DET pin out and wiring diagram for reference.

Then have a look at the dash plugs and power plugs in particular, if they are a straight plug in it will make life alot easier. as far as evrything elso goes about the only thing youd need to do is swap the engine mounts. All anciliarys should hook up no worries. Worst case you'd have to swap the AC and powersteering from your current engine onto the new one.

Oh this has been done to death. The simple explaination is that while it is possible it costs alot of money and even then you wont have the reliability of a factory turbo. If you have the cash to do the conversion why not buy the turbo model??? I guess you need to learn by making the mistakes yourself.

All the suff under the parcel shelf is a fuse box HICAS 4WS system and in the R33 a battery

na mate, there is more thna just that, my NA has batetry/HICAS and fuse box - I know as I relocated them for my speaker install

and when you sit down and calculate costs - it wouldn't be cheaper tos ell my car and buy a turbo version - sell my NA, lose money on it as you do with cars, buy a stock turbo without my nice buddy clubs ;)

...or maybe a non skyline engine?
Wash your mouth out!!!!!

RB25DET should drop straight into a R33 RB25DE (well it did for my RB25DET into R32). If you buy a half-cut, you will get a loom and computer to match the engine. Simple.

(hint - to replace the loom, remove the LH guard)

Wash your mouth out!!!!!

Actually this was done last year by a good friend with very very good results.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35764

managed to get a best of 233.6rwhp
[email protected] With GAS!!!!

It ended up costing less than an RB25DET conversion, but I guess going the

RB route is a little more practical.

hey aaron

hows the decision process going? turbos aint expensive

its all reatlive to power increase. turbo was designed as not so expensive way to increase acceleration power, and thats how its meant to be

you should be able to pick up gtst breaks for cheap as

i mean hey i'll sell you mine if its to help a fellow skyliner

ill sell you mine and get some dba slotted/drilled ones instead

all the parts for a turbo conversion should be able to obtain from forums, other memers, jap wreckers, repco etc

things are moving slowly, stilld eciding and getting prices etc

re the brakes - i'd hev to do a hub converison wouldn't i? from 4 stud to 5?

anyway, where it stands now I have been able to source:

stock 33 turbo + all lines etc

manifold + other intake etc bits

stock intercooler

gtst injectors

He said somewhere in the range of 650 + shipping charges, so i'd be looking at about 750-800 unless I drove down and picked them up. I thought 800 wasn't too bad - then of course i'd have to get a ECU - which wouldn't be that hard...

I have gotten a quote for a r33 halfcut <2000 + delivery charges - less than 2 grand for a frontcut is insane, i'm still trying to decide if the seller can be trusted though - otherwise i'd just grab one from JJ in brissie

I've had a htink about what exactly i want out of the car - and i don't want it to be a racer or anything, just a bit more power - i'd be happy running ~7 psi through it and do a full conversion next year - or rb30 bottom or similar

what on earth? working on an n/a vs turbo is no where a good comparsion.

any basic mods in a turbo score at least 2x or 3x the gain vs in a n/a

yeah even with support systems it cant cost that much surely

stop being anti turbo conversion just cos you have gtst and he doesnt

let him have some fun it will be fine

gatty yeah 2000 is pretty good, a place in melb had a 65,000 rb25det for $2500

so its pretty good and right on the money. also if you do get a halfcut then you can run whatever boost etc you like and wont be limited to stock boost cos of compression, plus you can mix and match the best parts of the two engines.

n/a add ecu $800 change you get 5-10rwkw

turbo add ecu $1200 change you get 25rwkw

n/a add $700 exhaust you get 5rwkw or maybe even make less power as the engine needs backflow pressure.

turbo add $800 exhaust (cos u need front/dump as well) and you get another 15rkw maybe 20rwkw and a lot better turbo spool up response

n/a add piggyback or ecu chip $300 get 5rwkw maybe 10rwkw

turbo add piggyback or ecu chip $350 and get 15rwkw

n/a add cold air intake kit $250 5rwkw maybe?

turbo add colr air intake kit $250 5rwkw maybe?

turbo add boost controller $200 15rwkw extra usually

yep, probably a bit more striaght forward also, i'm still trying to find some info on extra wiring etc that may need to be done if i turbo the current motor

and i'm no guru but working a NA compared to a turbo surely would be more expensive for the same power gains

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...