Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so I'm crusing to tennis along Monaro, just got my car back.

Then "BANG!"

I go "WTF MATE?" (to myself of course)

I get to tennis, hop out of the car, and my sunroof is smashed into a million pieces. I guess you could say it's technically once peice as the tint appears to be holding it together. But seriously, what the ****?

The sunroof was down, wasn't behind any cars, no one around (to throw a rock or anything) but it appears that a rock has hit it.

Now, how do I go about finding a replacement sunroof for an 88 JDM Galant? :pissed:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/63961-random-breaking-glass/
Share on other sites

You've got a tint job on your sunroof?! There's the problem,right there! This piece of wisdom was imparted by one of Canberra's top window tinters to me a month or so ago. Shocked as I was,it made sense:think just how f**king hot that glass already gets,then increase it 5 fold and reduce it's ability to disperse heat? Hmmm..bang,indeed,sir! Unless the car is equiped with special glass(treated,laminated...I don't know:they're just "treated",OK!),they WILL eventually go "KER-POW!" if they're tinted,it seems. This probably hasn't helped you one iota,but it may shed some light(geddit?Shed some light?!Hahahahahaha...groan)on your problem...

Yeah i've been told not to tint my sunroofs, which sucked coz i wanted them both to be see through but a lot less hot. Surely it'll be a standard Mistubishi style sunroof and the part number should match other models that were Aus release?

This is just ****ed. ****ing mother****er of a ****ing car.

****!!!

Ok, now that's out of the way. Mitsubishi tell me that galants never came with factory sunroofs (check any importer, almost all JDM's have sunroofs) .

Two sunroof shops said I had buckley's of getting one

15 Wreckers around australia don't have one.

I'm gonna make my own. ****ING :(

mark you can someone to make it up in perspecs, so try looking for some places in canberra area that do perspecs work. Oh and they can prob have the tint made into the stuff.

Other wise will start asking around for you for the real deal

Mark I hope you have found an acceptable solution. My experience with a Jensen Interceptor that has a rear window 3 times the size of the S'line and is probably suspected of being a stressed member(!) suggests that if you make enough phone calls and dig deep enough you will get a solution. Try talking to Pilkingtons and others who are in the glass industry because I have been amazed at what they can do if you take the right approach.

Hope that helps

Mark I hope you have found an acceptable solution. My experience with a Jensen Interceptor that has a rear window 3 times the size of the S'line and is probably suspected of being a stressed member(!) suggests that if you make enough phone calls and dig deep enough you will get a solution. Try talking to Pilkingtons and others who are in the glass industry because I have been amazed at what they can do if you take the right approach.  

Hope that helps

Thanks for that, I'll give it a go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...