Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After reading a few posts about the coil pack issues i was wondering,

1. How much for new set of coils

2. Where can we get them from

3. Watt brand (Spitfires/Genuine nissan ?)

Also O2 sensor & crank angle sensor....how much and where can we get it from?

................................................................................

..........................................

I got my car dyno yesterday at Jem performance at Moorebank NSW

but I did the following before the dyno,

1. New fuel filter(coopers brand)

2. New BCP7E NGK Spark plugs.....(no adjustment on gap.. kept standard gap)

3. Reset the ECU

It was dyno at 134 kw. A few adjustments and i got 145kw safely.

Yes my car has got a pingin issue and missfire.

................................................................................

..........................................

I will try the following now;

1. Clean the injectors out (my car has done 101,000 km now)

2. Seal the coil packs (with either Araldite or that dialetic grease)

3. Change 02 sensor

4. Change crank angle sensor (? not sure about this one yet)

I will do each in stages to c if there is any change between these items do.

maybe we can hopefully isolate something.

................................................................................

.......................................

Have i left anything out?

What do u guys think?

I've been searching for O2 sensors too, and from these threads, lots of people have found that EL ford falcon sensors are a swap over, albeit with a bit of wiring. They range from $80-$120 from places like repco & autobarn. Aparently the wiring has a diff harness/clip, so you need to cut it and rewire. Seems pretty simple. This is what i'm doing later this week.

Hope that helps.

Looks like you have covered the common stuff.

They are a cam angle sensor also, not a crank angle sensor. Not that anyone gives a crap, but sometimes helps when ordering parts.

What boost level VS timing are you running?

What mods do you have?

ok...... GTR Killer thanks. Thinkin of VL's too much.

I started on my Injectors yesterday. I took the whole Fuel rail out and sent it in with the injectors in it to be cleaned.

I found that in the manifold...the last 3 sections inside the manifold are quiete darker in oil.

I am talking about the last 3 manifold sections closest to the fire wall.

The first 3 are clean as.

I am thinkin o gettin the head ported and polished a little ...while i have the stuff off.

Not sure yet what to do.

With that info I would have to definately recommend a head service which you will get with a port job anyway. The valves have to come out to do the porting so they will re-seat them and replace the stem seals. You will most probably find the nature of your problem once the head is off. Make sure you check your pistons for bore travel just to be on the safe side and check them for pitting or any unusual marks. Make sure you find out what's causing the darkness before you go ahead with the port job. Also make sure they do a full check on the head before proceeding. I know of a couple of places who would just start chopping without checking.

Another thing about porting, on this vehicle it is not advised to extend the head VS manifold area. This, I have been told, is already quite large compared to the capacity of the head. Depending on how far you wanna go with it. Sure, if you have the turbo to match it, then open her right up, but be prepared to open your wallet at the petrol station. If you are going to open this area, make sure you match port the manifold to suit it otherwise your efforts are wasted. Most of your power gains will be made from cleaning up the bowl area below the valve. Do not underestimate such minimal work, you will be surprised at the results.

Polishing is a bad idea....good in the 80's but reasearch tells us that pollishing the heads and manifold is actually bad for performance. You will lose horsepower with a polish.

  • 1 year later...

There is a huge thread on O2 sensors stickied at the top of this section.

Get N15 pulsar plug, $90 from motortraders (trade price) and comes with plug. Plugs straight in, no fixing wires :/

I just got one and definitely does fit

Edited by salad
  • 3 years later...

don't see the point of owning 2 cars as the missus and i both work at the same spot (at my business), and her car is fast enough (will beat natro skylines, lol), and is cheap to run, and tows my tinny well enough, so no point paying $1000 in rego and insurance a year for a lawn ornament.

oh and the bicycles comment was based on the fact i own a bike shop.

don't see the point of owning 2 cars as the missus and i both work at the same spot (at my business), and her car is fast enough (will beat natro skylines, lol), and is cheap to run, and tows my tinny well enough, so no point paying $1000 in rego and insurance a year for a lawn ornament.

oh and the bicycles comment was based on the fact i own a bike shop.

what are these 2 cars you speak of

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...