Jump to content
SAU Community

Where didja get it?

Birnie
 Share

Recommended Posts

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I'm finally taking the plunge and buying what seems to be the most common setup for R33 suspension.

ie. Bilstein shocks and Whiteline springs (as recommended by Sydneykid)

UAS have em for $225 per shock ($900) and the springs are $295

Total of $1195

I haven't said anything about the Skylines membership and don't know if it will make any difference but I'll try.

Has anyone else seen it cheaper or is that pretty much the going rate?

Installation will be done by me. (oh dear) but it should be fun.

Thanks! :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/64267-where-didja-get-it/
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Sounds good.. $1200 to get your car to handle like a charm.. Sounds like a good deal to me ;) The prices are about the same I was budgetting for.

Probably similar setup to what I'll be going for. But I might opt for Koni's to save a bit of money.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yep UAS have a 10% discount for SAU NSW members....you might just need to remind them....

its probably also worth looking into the sway bars as well....

....then a new set of notlec bushes....

then it will handle great ;)

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey thanks Duncan !

If anyone's gunna know i guess you would.

I did ring back before you posted asking about a Skylines discount and he said 5%.

So about $1140. But 10% would be fantastic! ($1080 !)

Yeah, i guess the rest is on the list too, on a long list that i can literally wait years to do bit by bit. But like many peeps here, I've bought a place to live in up the Central Coast, and i had to fight nail and tooth to keep MY last bit of savings to go towards the car.

  • 2 weeks later...
Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
This kind of setup that your going for, is this suited for an all round performance?

Or suited for Drift/drag/circuit?

I'm interested in what kind of setup would be good for either of these types of racing conditions.

My setup is for road use, but harder and better handling.

Drifting would require the ultra hard Jap shocks i would say (not that I've ever drifted..)

I've bought em, got em put in for a case of beer and had some fun doing it too.

After we did the whole lot! Lowered the car of the jack, didn't look quite right...missed a few pieces and had to do all 4 again !!! hahaha! But still fun and a great learnging experience.

Well, i now know i was one of the lucky ones!

I just checked where i got mine from with the 'Duncan' suggested 10% off

I got an absolute bargain!

The price seems to be no more...thanks to me..sorry

I won't say too much but a bit of investigation should see what i mean.

Anyway, lowered the car enough for me. almost so you can't tell, but the front is no longer higher than the back. Looks how it should i think.

Springs are quite hard, need a good shove with your body weight when standing beside the car.

But handles lovely! and a bit more "like a go-cart" is a term i here alot....(well maybe not quite like a go-cart)

Still in the bedding in stage and need the wheel alignment/balance but overall very happy! and pleased to have it done by a someone of the forums rather than a mechanic. Quoted $300+ for installation. Me....done for a case of Crownies...$48, plus the fun of doin it yourself it seeing it done.

Hunt around...!! and read HEAPS and search HEAPS on these forums

aKTiVE Collaborator

aKTiVE

Posted
Posted

hmm, i've found bilstien shocks/springs to be a bit sloppy, the use for my car i need very stiff suspension.

They are alright though, they are good for driving around, they are kinda stiff so they are everyday friendly, but when you want to do more spirited driving or drift, i dont really like them.

My friend had his Koni's revalved to Tein HA specifications and thats awesome. But probably too hard for some/most people.

Depending on what you really want out of a suspension package, bilstien is good because they are quite friendly on the street and kinda stiff so u can do a bit of track stuff... but if you want to be more adventurous i would be looking for a name brand coilover (tein/hks)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...