Jump to content
SAU Community

photo of intake side of RB20DET engine plz..

predator

By predator,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Does somebody have a large photo of a fully intact RB20DET from the intake side (out of the car). I need to see which exact hose is leaking coolant. I can see it leaking from underneath. Its where it goes back into the block just near the oil pressure sender and a bit back from the alternator. I think it's the heater hose return, but not sure.

I have the engine manuals in PDF, but useless as batshit for an overall diagram of the whole coolant flow system ;)

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Yeah, that is the return.

Have you replaced the little 3 inch hose under the manifold?

Coz if you haven't, I would probably consider it. It will go next.

A real pain to get to though. You'll need a lot of patience.

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted
Have you replaced the little 3 inch hose under the manifold? Coz if you haven't, I would probably consider it. It will go next.

A real pain to get to though. You'll need a lot of patience.

I'll second that! Also be prepared to lose a lot of skin on your hands.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the encouragement guys :( It's going to be fun removing most of the manifold I know.

Yeah, once one goes they all tend to. This one is leaking pretty badly. I've traced it along and it goes into just near the thermostat.

I only really just got the car.. he replaced one of them as he said it had a coolant leak when i bought it, but obviously not the right one.

mabru Enthusiast

mabru

Posted
Posted

Hehe, I can almost guarantee which one is leaking, it will be the thermo housing to intake manifold coolant line. the small steel nipple coming out of the engine block rusts out and pisses coolant on the ground. If you're lucky you can cover the hole with a longer hose and double hose clamp the little bastard. And replace every single hose underneath the manifold while you have it torn down. It doesn't take very long and is worth the piece of mind.

-Matt

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the advice.. I am pretty sure it's back on one of the actual hose connections (can see it dripping from them), rather than near the thermostat housing, but we'll see. But yeah, that is the one I'm pretty positive is gone.

Probably half a days work to get it all off and fixed up, so working my way up to it :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hardsteppa
      R-chassis INNER tie rod torque spec?

      By hardsteppa · Posted

      Not sure if you're being serious? I, and all the car people i know, ALWAYS use a torque wrench for wheel nuts. I assumed any car person, apart from tyre centre monkeys with rattle gun in hand, would do it properly.  Anyway, no further reply from me on this unless legit discussion from OP or his query so, over to you, knock yerself out.
    • PranK
      Wheel refurb?

      By PranK · Posted

      I was wondering about this. I'll do some research.
    • Predator1
      Rb26 iron block limit

      By Predator1 · Posted

      Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • GTSBoy
      gauge needle removal

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • GTSBoy
      R-chassis INNER tie rod torque spec?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
×
×
  • Create New...