Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

[silviaz]

11 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

More likely from tiny bubbles in the filler/putty. Maybe be less aggressive when mixing it. Perhaps invest in a vacuum chamber to pull the air bubbles out?**

**I don't know if this is a thing for body filler. I see hardcore epoxy makers degassing their mixed resin on the regular.

Ah ok. I seem to be mixing it like everyone else does so not sure what's happening. Will experiment with it more.

[GTSBoy]

Your other option is to buy a spray can of hi-fill and prime it with some pinholes. See if the primer makes them disappear. If it does, then you can leave it with pinholes of that size and they will go away when the painter takes over.

[Murray_Calavera]

@silviaz first thought is you are folding air into the filler as your mixing the hardener through it, GTS beat me to that. 

Next thought is, maybe too much hardener was used. 

Unfortunately there are a lot of variables that can give you pinholes. Maybe consider weighing out the filler/hardener to remove this variable. 

[silviaz]

2 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

@silviaz first thought is you are folding air into the filler as your mixing the hardener through it, GTS beat me to that. 

Next thought is, maybe too much hardener was used. 

Unfortunately there are a lot of variables that can give you pinholes. Maybe consider weighing out the filler/hardener to remove this variable. 

I rewatched some video tutorials of other people doing it, and compared it to mine, I think I might be mixing it faster than the other guys. @GTSBoy when you said aggressively I guess this falls under that. The level of hardener seems consistent, I'll experiment with it more and report back.

[silviaz]

On 01/06/2025 at 12:36 PM, MBS206 said:

To expand on this to help understanding...

The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle.

When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots.

However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill".

Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150.

For the big panel, go bigger!

 

And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it"

PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...

I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea?

The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys?

Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.

 

Edited 2 hours ago by silviaz