Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't be lazy. Do a search.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=61125

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/fo...ead.php?t=24652

www.autech.net.au

Also stating your location might help. Brisbane is kind of large.

Edit: Ok so you live in the Annerley area. I would have to say Chapman and Chapman. Yes they do good work.

The club is sponcered by various workshops which do excellent work:

Mercury Motorsport (Wilston)

Cosmos Mechanical (Ipswitch)

Automotive Technique (Labradore)

Tuff Toys (Cooparoo)

All of which you will gain discounts on if you are a club member :)

LiAm, it depends where you live and if you find the workshop and staff to be reliable. I take my baby to Allstar Tuning at Zillmere. Richard and Daniel are good people and have never let me down. Good advice is the best PR a workshop can offer and Richard knows his stuff. :wassup:

I go to my back yard....

Most trust worthy place round....

No offence to the workshops suggested, but i have been burnt badllyh with my last car at the 2 shops i took it too.... Non of the sponcer shops were involved. But i will be visiting Mercury in the near future as their close and their a sponcer. I was impressed with the workshop at the BBQ. A motorsport shop with Motul oils in the 20 litre drums. Now thats quality, also their dyno was very nice and the guys were frendlly. So i will be using them to tune the PFC as you need a dyno and i may as well use them. (Because their a sponcer mainlly, support your sponcers)

Yeah I towed my car back from the track with some unknown problem on Sunday afternoon, by monday afternoon they had installed a new fuel pump and dyno tuned my SAFC for a great price and yeah Trent is a really nice bloke, :).

Also have been to Automotive Technique and they are great too, went in to get my free service (as won in the charity auction) and they did that and trouble shooted a couple of things I was interested in. Also they are right next door to Brake Distributers of Australia, (another club sponcer) and they are great too, have several race cars setup for various forms of motorsport and was more than happy to have a chat and answer all the n00b questions I had.

yeh well my head in my RB20det is bent, due to my radiator it kept over heating !! now my head is bent so it needs to be pull out and machined !!  

i got a qoute from ADD racing in kendron for aroun 1500 i think...

ADD...stay away from the boiler makers...

I too have heard a few dodgy things about ADD, like they are being sued by someone. I have had heaps of work done at Mercury Motorsport and I will continue to get all my work done there. The guys are great they know their stuff and they don't try and sell you bits you don't need. My 0.02 cents go to Mercury.

Cheers

Gary

any on the southside of Brisbane. Slacks creek areaish?

Yeah dude.

Go to DJ Sivyer Mechanical, hes just off compton road, in Timms Court, #10. PH# 3290 2967.

Some weeks he can be quite busy, so its best to ring and see when you can book it in. But lets just say he saved me a lot of money as I went to him not another work shop that said my water pump was leaking (this was last August, its still not leaking, and even after a good pressure test it never leaked, IE, my water pump was not leaking and did not need changning). Hes also extreamly thorough (sp) checks everything twice. (I've seen some other mechanics, they pull the car apart, and dont put it back, and or dont double check stuff).

Hes honist, and knows skylines and RBs pretty darn good. I can not recomend him highly enough.

Sorry for the ramble, but yeah, he really is quite good.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...